The Register-Guard

Mild? Has Huy Fong Sriracha lost its kick?

Sauce returns to stores, fans say with less heat

- Jessica Guynn

After an agonizingl­y long shortage, Sriracha lovers relished the news that the wildly popular Huy Fong Foods rooster bottles were reappearin­g on grocery store shelves and restaurant tables to once again spice up steaming bowls of pho and ramen. But their Sriracha-induced euphoria was shortlived.

The hot take from die-hard Huy Fong fans is actually a not-so-hot take: They say everyone’s go-to Sriracha no longer brings the same heat. They also complain that the bright red color has turned a muddier shade of orange. And that bellyachin­g is quickly spreading across the internet as people conduct their own informal taste tests to measure Sriracha zing.

“The classic garlicky, vinegary taste is still there, but the classic heat seems to have dropped off,” Luke Gralia wrote in The Takeout.

“That’s what I am feeling,” responded one Redditor. “I thought it was just my taste buds messing with my head at first until I tried other kinds with more spice.”

Many of the taste tests pit the sizzle in Huy Fong Sriracha against its archrival, Dragon Sauce, produced by Underwood Ranches, Huy Fong’s former chili pepper supplier in California.

The Huy Fong Sriracha empire dates back to 1979 when David Tran, a Vietnam War refugee, arrived in Los Angeles. A year later, he began selling hot sauce from a blue Chevy van. The Sriracha produced by his Irwindale, California, company has been a staple of hot sauce enthusiast­s for years.

In 1988, Huy Fong formed a partnershi­p with Underwood Ranches to provide the red jalapeños that gave Huy Fong its punch. Soon Underwood Ranches was growing over 100 million pounds of peppers for Huy Fong. But the relationsh­ip ended in 2016.

Huy Fong sued over a payment dispute. In 2019, a jury instead awarded Underwood Ranches $23.3 million in damages.

Since then, Huy Fong has relied on a smattering of other chili pepper producers.

While the internet taste tests may lack scientific rigor, the crowdsourc­ed findings have prompted some Huy Fong fans to switch their allegiance to Dragon Sauce, which they say has the pungency and flavor they’ve been missing.

One Redditor raved that Dragon Sauce had the “spicy and nostalgic OG taste” of Huy Fong.

Craig Underwood, owner of Underwood Ranches, a family farm in operation since 1867, says he isn’t surprised.

Huy Fong owed much of its success to Underwood Ranches’ fresh peppers, according to Underwood, who started farming with his father in 1968.

Now Dragon Sauce – seeded by those same peppers – is carried by some Costco warehouses and is a top-selling Sriracha sauce on Amazon.com.

“We were the ones who supplied those peppers for 28 years. We were the ones who came up with the varieties that worked,” Underwood said. “So, yeah, I would say now that we’re supplying the peppers for our own sauce, we’re making the sauce the way it used to taste.”

Not everyone is sold.

“Reddit evangelist­s swear up and down that Underwood’s sauce tastes ‘indistingu­ishable’ from the original Huy Fong formula, thanks to its use of the original peppers. From my experience, this was not true in the slightest,” Gralia wrote in The Takeout. “The new Huy Fong might be milder than its previous iteration, but Underwood’s sauce is even milder.”

Huy Fong – which signs its emails “stay spicy” – says its recipe hasn’t changed but the flavor and hue vary from batch to batch depending on where the company sources its fresh chili peppers and when they are harvested.

“Some batches can vary in color, level of spiciness and even consistenc­y,” the company said in a statement.

“Some batches can vary in color, level of spiciness and even consistenc­y,” Huy Fong said in a statement.

 ?? REUTERS/LUCY NICHOLSON ?? “The classic garlicky, vinegary taste is still there, but the classic heat seems to have dropped off,” Luke Gralia wrote in The Takeout.
REUTERS/LUCY NICHOLSON “The classic garlicky, vinegary taste is still there, but the classic heat seems to have dropped off,” Luke Gralia wrote in The Takeout.
 ?? REUTERS/LUCY NICHOLSON ?? “The new Huy Fong might be milder than its previous iteration, but Underwood’s sauce is even milder.” Luke Gralia wrote in The Takeout.
REUTERS/LUCY NICHOLSON “The new Huy Fong might be milder than its previous iteration, but Underwood’s sauce is even milder.” Luke Gralia wrote in The Takeout.
 ?? TOM KISKEN/VENTURA COUNTY STAR ?? Huy Fong – which signs its emails “stay spicy” – says its recipe hasn’t changed but the flavor and hue vary from batch to batch.
TOM KISKEN/VENTURA COUNTY STAR Huy Fong – which signs its emails “stay spicy” – says its recipe hasn’t changed but the flavor and hue vary from batch to batch.

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