Antiques: Some interesting pearls of wisdom
After a long but productive Modernism Week, it’s clear that pearls have become a hot topic of conversation. This column touched on the subject recently, but the widespread number of followup inquiries was surprising. Pearls are indeed coming back in vogue, and not just with the older set. Young people are asking too, both guys and girls.
Thus, let’s jump into deeper water to see what all the excitement is about.
To start with, pearls have some unique features that make up a significant part of their appeal. They are the only objects considered as gemstones that are not mined but rather come from the sea. Moreover, pearls are formed by living creatures, including abalone, clams, mussels and, of course, oysters.
Naturally occurring pearls, whereby an irritant such as a grain of sand gets between the mollusk and its shell and is slowly coated with nacre, are exceedingly scarce. As a result, almost all pearls today are cultured — in other words, induced with the introduction of one or more starter elements. The pearls that result are still real pearls.
The Gemological Institute of America is the primary educator of jewelers across America, and they have an entire course load on pearls. Basically, there are four main types:
Akoya pearls come from Asia and often make up the classic single strand necklace. Round and creamy, they are eternally popular.
South Sea pearls come from the western Pacific and are among the largest of the cultured variety. Hues of silver and gold are common in these beauties.
Not surprisingly, Tahitian pearls come from the islands of French Polynesia and include darker shades. These exotics are often referred to as black pearls, though they are typically more charcoal than black.
Finally, freshwater pearls are usually smaller and often more irregular in shape. While saltwater mollusks generally yield only one pearl at a time, freshwater pearls can be induced in bunches. Thus, they are much more common and command somewhat lower prices.
Of course, imitation pearls are out there too, and sometimes it can be challenging to tell the difference. One way to do so is the “tooth test” where you gently run a pearl’s surface over the edge of your tooth. Real pearls have an uneven surface and will feel gritty, while those made from plastic or glass will feel considerably smoother.
Real pearls are also usually cooler and heavier than their artificial counterparts and are rarely perfectly round. If you’re still uncertain, a light rubbing together of two real pearls will create a fine dust. One way or another, it’s usually possible to tell the difference without going to a jeweler.
Now to the money part. The price of real pearls can vary enormously from the low three figures for a nice if unremarkable single strand to the cost of an exotic motor car for best-in-class. In general, size, shape, color and luster are the most important variables.
Of those, luster is the most subjective but still very detectable by the casual shopper. In a high-quality pearl, you should be able to see your reflection clearly and in sharp detail. If the pearl’s appearance is chalky or dull, it is not of premium quality.
As for cleaning pearls, wipe them gently with warm (not hot or cold) water mixed with a drop or two of mild dish soap. And since pearls need moisture and air to retain their brilliance, by all means wear them!
Mike Rivkin and his wife, Linda, are long-time residents of Rancho Mirage. For many years, he was an award-winning catalogue publisher and has authored seven books, along with countless articles. Now, he’s the owner of Antique Galleries of Palm Springs. His antiques column appears Sundays in The Desert Sun. Want to send Mike a question about antiques? Drop him a line at info@silverfishpress.com.