RESTAURANTS: GO, CONSIDER , STOP
Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Monie Begley, Richard Nalley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.
• Eulalie
239 West Broadway, between Walker & White streets (Tel.: 646-476-2380)
In Tribeca, partners chef Chip Smith and Tina Vaughn—creators of The Simone—have a new 40-seat American restaurant with French overtones. The prix-xe menu is set at $115, changing every few weeks. Tina is the rst-rate house sommelier. A rst course of crispy pork trotters highlights the chef ’s North Carolina origins. Most evenings there is a cheese soufflé and a savory tart. A sh quenelle in a soupe de poisson creates a break before the delectable main course— usually with three to four mains to choose from. Flounder is pan-seared and served with a celeriac puree in a red-wine sauce; loin of veal is roasted with an array of caramelized butternut squash, baby Brussels sprouts and matsutake mushrooms. A perfect ending to the meal: chef Chip’s storied coconut cake.
• Amarena
151 East 82nd St. (Tel.: 212-933-0992)
Chef Julian Medina has launched his newest restaurant, featuring Italian fare. It’s a jampacked success and is set in the townhouse of the now-closed The Simone. Many offerings are Italian classics; others are slightly whimsical. Begin with the ori di zucca (zucchini blossoms lled with gorgonzola dolce), a plate of the arancini (risotto balls spiced with true cheese) or carcio alla giudea (baby artichokes tossed in a chili–Meyer lemon aioli). There are four different thin-crusted pizzas with alluring toppings, as well as a half-dozen pastas. For entrees try the pollo alla Parmigiana (ultra-comfort food) or the anatra alla cacciatore (dry-aged duck breast with maitake mushrooms, peppers and cippolini onions in a red-wine sauce). The desserts are irresistible.
• The Consulate
44 West 56th St. (Tel.: 646-850-1100)
This restaurant spans two levels with paneled décor, comfortable, buttoned tan banquettes and friendly service. Lamb tartare is rst-rate, and the ceviche is tasty. The delicious vegetarian Beyond burger could fool anyone. The buffalo chicken sandwich is spicy, the fries great. Bread pudding and pineapple upsidedown cake quickly disappear from plates.
• Hearth
403 East 12th St., between 1st Avenue & Avenue A (Tel.: 646-602-1300)
From cocktails to desserts you can’t go wrong at this farm-to-table eatery: fabulous cocktails, perfect blistered shishitos and fresh anchovies with crostinis, and a sublime butter macaroni. The calamari salad is a crunchy delight, and the variety burger (brisket, liver, heart and bone marrow) with fontina cheese and caramelized onion is amazing. Desserts are luscious.