GREAT LAKES IN NORTH AMERICA
Jane Druker falls for the dynamic cities and natural beauty of the USA and Canada, while cruising some of the world’s largest lakes
‘I’M ONLY STEPS FROM THE EDGE’
I’m standing in the eye of Niagara Falls and the energy is electric. In a visual and aural spectacle, rainbows dance and thunderous sounds powerfully pound over a vast cascade of rapids. Soaring 177ft into the air, the horseshoe-shaped Canadian falls gush continuously – a mind-boggling 682,000 gallons of water dumping over each second. Awe-inspiring and unforgettable, this feels like one of the wonders of the world.
And I’m only steps from the edge.
My visit to Canada’s Niagara Falls is both the culmination and high point of my seven-day Great Lakes cruise around four of the five great freshwater lakes of North America – Michigan, Erie, Huron and Ontario. Things kicked off a week before, when I met the Viking Octantis in Chicago, a purpose-built expedition ship designed to carry out scientific research, as well as
holidaymakers like myself. On my journey, the team would be collecting samples of the lakes’ algae, testing the waters’ cleanliness and sustainability.
The beauty of a cruise is getting to see so many diverse places over such a short period of time – and visiting sights, galleries and museums on excursion days that you wouldn’t normally even know about. But this time, travelling across vast lakes in the height of sun-soaked summer – rather than the usual oceans or rivers – brought a whole new perspective.
City explorations
One of the many highlights of the trip was the chance to explore America’s vibrant cities. Our first docked day was spent in the Midwest town of Milwaukee. The original home of ‘The Fonz’ and Happy Days, today it is a culinary epicentre with shrimp and lobster meals, giant markets and coffee shops. Then there was Detroit, birthplace of the Ford Motor Company and home to Motown music. I visited the Henry Ford Museum of American Innovation, which has a huge collection of automobiles, planes and trains. I was struck by the cars belonging to former American presidents, including JFK’S midnight-blue Lincoln Continental convertible, from that fateful day in 1963, in which he was assassinated. Seeing it up close felt incredibly moving.
Of course, there was plenty of natural beauty to contrast the city hustle and bustle. One day, we visited the quaint American island of Mackinac. You can’t even drive cars here, instead travelling by horse and carriage or biking around its 8.2-mile circumference. I relished the peaceful, throwback retreat on a warm summer’s day, home to boutiques and restaurants, and the most delicious fudge I have ever tasted.
Food is such an important part of any vacation, and I spent another day catching my own lunch. On the tidal water at Alpena, I went on my very first
fishing trip. I didn’t have high hopes, but I ended up catching an 8lb river trout – not bad for a novice! After a calm time spent on the water, I enjoyed the fruits of my labour at a local barbecue spot.
Bound for Canada
On the final days of the trip, cruising through Lake Erie and Lake Ontario, we moved onwards to Canada. From Point Pelee, a renowned birdwatcher’s paradise, we carried on to that thrilling stop by Niagara Falls. Then it was our final destination, Toronto. Canada’s largest city has a thriving night-time scene and its downtown has played backdrop to multiple movies and TV shows, including Meghan Markle’s Suits.
Shopping districts such as Yorkville and Queen Street West are perfect for buying souvenirs to take home. I was tempted to stock up on cosy gloves and hats – after all, Canada is famous for its frosty winters – but in the basking warmth of the city’s summer heat, I ultimately just relaxed and browsed, savouring the final few moments of my Great Lakes adventure.
✢ Seven nights on Viking’s Niagara and the Great Lakes cruise costs from £4,895 per person, including return UK flights and all on-board meals; viking.com >>