BACK O’SKIDDAW, LAKE DISTRICT
START/FINISH: Fellside Farm (NY304374)
Distance: 33km/20 miles Ascent: 1350m/4430ft Duration: 2 days
Difficulty: 6/10
Hidden away in the Lake District’s Northern Fells, behind the A-list paps of Skiddaw and Blencathra, is a gentler landscape of high, hummocky hills and ferny becks grazed by long-horned cattle. It might lack the drama of exposed rock faces, hanging tarns and scrambly ridges, but Back o’ Skiddaw also lacks Lakeland crowds. This makes it the perfect retreat during hectic high season; the views from these humbler hills rival far more famous summit panoramas – and, crucially, you won’t have to share them.
The most prominent peak in this secluded Cumbrian backwater is Knott (710m). It’s one of nine Wainwrights that punctuate the scenically serene landscape north of the River Caldew. You can cherry-pick five of the best in an 8-mile loop, beginning and ending at the hamlet of Longlands, but it’s far more fun to expand your ambitions and bag all nine over two terrific days.
The latter option is a 33km wild camping circuit with multiple diversions to touch surrounding summits. From a Fell Side starting point, it romps up Brae Fell by way of Willy Knott (pleasingly for connoisseurs of absurd place names, this route also takes in Great Cockup and, given a wee extra detour, Little Cockup as well). One of its appeals is that there’s barely room to breathe between summits – Longlands Fell, Great Sca Fell, Meal Fell and the Cockups follow on in quick succession. By now you’ll be deep into typical Back o’ Skiddaw scenery, which alternates high, grassy saddles with deep-cut ravines and featureless green summits. There are mysteries to uncover as well. Look out for the hidden waterfall on the slopes of Frozen Fell, and the remains of an RAF plane that crashed above Burntod Gill in 1942.
Knott lies roughly halfway through the route, which makes it a good place to set up your tent for the night. There are plenty of places to wild camp around here – another bonus of the rolling terrain – and the next day you’ll have a similar distance to tackle but fewer summits to bag. The highlight of those last few miles is probably Carrock Fell. Blessed with a bouldery summit and brilliant views eastwards, it’s the penultimate Wainwright of the walk and a good place to enjoy a celebratory sip of beer.