SEEK THE BEAUTY OF SPRING IN CARMARTHENSHIRE
As the seasons change, it’s time to take nature’s lead, follow the sun and head west for some of the finest walking in South West Wales. Expect birdwatching, British film history, literary brilliance, breathtaking mountain views and more
AS THE DAYS grow longer and the sun gets a little warmer, Carmarthenshire in South West Wales springs into life.
Whether you choose the mountains or the coast, there’s plenty to give your senses a springtime workout – just at the end of the M4. The area’s ancient woodlands are carpeted white and blue as wild garlic and bluebells compete for attention. For the best views, climb the ‘Carmarthen Fans’ on the eastern edge of the Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brecheiniog) or head north to the Cambrian Mountains to watch the setting sun.
It’s said that the world reveals itself to those who travel on foot, and in Carmarthenshire there is no better way to get around, as dozens of coastal and rural walks intertwine with history and tradition. This county, with its rugged coastline, epic mountains and breathtaking vistas, provides a dramatic backdrop for a getaway whilst its verdant valleys are lined with quiet country roads and guarded by ruined castles. These diverse landscapes are rich in walking routes, varying from gentle, traffic-free trails to lung-busting hikes. Along each lies a succession of attractions: mighty castles, spectacular gardens, fantastic beaches – as well as outstanding places to eat and drink, attractive market towns and walking-friendly accommodation providing ideal bases for on-foot adventures.
Take your pick from eight of the best walks to enjoy in Carmarthenshire this spring. There’s something for walkers of all abilities and interests – whether you’re looking for an active weekend getaway, a challenging and rewarding week amongst the mountains, or a relaxing coastal adventure...
1. LLANSTEFFAN COAST AND CASTLE
What better time of year to sample the best of the Wales Coast Path around Llansteffan than in spring? Start off at the sandy beach of Llansteffan and make your way through the enchanting woodland to the beautiful Scott’s Bay.
This stunning beach has views across the Tywi Estuary, and due to its hidden nature can feel like you’ve discovered your own private bay. Continue to follow the coastal path up to the historic Llansteffan Castle where the panoramic views are worthy of a photo or two.
2. THE LADY OF THE LAKE
The dramatic views and dark, glimmering waters of Llyn y Fan Fach are enclosed by grassy mountainsides. Folklore tells of a young farmer who, in the 13th Century, spotted what he claimed was the most beautiful woman he had ever seen emerge from its waters. Do keep an eye out for this mystical Lady of the Lake! A circumnavigation provides a pleasant walk for all levels, but those wanting more of a challenge can scale the mountainsides and admire this glacial lake from above.
3. THE DYLAN THOMAS BIRTHDAY WALK
Spring is a perfect time to visit the town of Laugharne, once home to one of Wales’s greatest poets: Dylan Thomas.
For those wanting to follow in his footsteps, the Laugharne section of the coastal path showcases the best of the area.
Follow the route of Thomas’ favourite walk as described in his Poem in October. Expect delightful views across the estuary to Laugharne Castle and the landscape that inspired this literary legend. Finish your walk with a visit to the Boathouse in Laugharne, where Thomas spent the last years of his life between 1949 and 1953. There’s a charming little teashop in the museum too.
4. SANDY WATER PARK AND MILLENNIUM COASTAL PARK
This gentle stroll around the lake of Llanelli’s Sandy Water Park and along the Millennium Coastal Path is one for all. This traffic-free path is ideal for buggies and wheelchairs and has adjacent car parking. The walk around Sandy Water park is under 2km, whilst the coastal path stretches for 22km from Bynea to Pembrey. Spot orchids, plus sea birds and water birds in the lake then venture through Mabinogion Woods with its literary-inspired sculptures. Llanelli Beach is the highlight of this part of the Millennium Coastal Path, which offers unparalleled views over Carmarthen Bay.
5. TWM SION CATI CAVE
Did you know Wales has had its very own Robin Hood character? The highwayman Twm Sion Catti was notorious in the area, and this walk takes in the glorious woodland and along the River Tywi up to the highwayman’s cave. Here you’ll find hundreds of years’-worth of visitor names carved into the rock at the cave’s entrance.
Make sure to pass through the Gwenffrwd Dinas RSPB Nature Reserve too. A visit to the woodlands of Dinas in May is an opportunity to see carpets of bluebells, a stunning violet haze beneath the trees. And if you raise your head, carpets of lichen cover the trunks and branches of the trees. Look out especially for witches beard or Usnea florida, with its tangled tresses and ‘eyes’...
6. KIDWELLY
This trail takes in medieval castles, picturesque riversides and delightful wildlife. You’ll visit Carmarthenshire’s most complete medieval castle, which featured at the start of the film Monty Python and the Holy Grail. Following the river will take you down to the Kymer canal and quay – said to be one of the oldest in Britain – which now welcomes you as a nature reserve. It’s a real favourite with birdwatchers, and spring is an ideal time to visit as birds flock to the estuary and marshlands.
7. LLANDEILO AND DINEFWR CASTLE
Llandeilo is a chic, bustling market town in the heart of Carmarthenshire. Bursting with galleries, craft shops and fashionable boutiques, it sits on the edge of the Brecon Beacons (Bannau Brycheiniog). From the town, head out to the Tywi Valley past St Teilo’s well, known for its healing properties, and into National Trust parkland at Dinefwr. Here is Dinefwr Castle, which was once the seat of a regional prince and now sits atop a hill as a picturesque ruin overlooking the valley. Further on through the parkland you’ll find Newton House. This grand country home sits in gardens designed by ‘Capability’ Brown, which contrast with the Gothic exterior of the historic house. Wind your way back to the town via the woodland, which in spring captivates with a carpet of bluebells.
8. CENARTH AND THE RIVER TEIFI
The picturesque village of Cenarth is probably best accessed by a stunning riverside walk along the River Teifi. Start at the ancient market town of Newcastle Emlyn with its medieval castle and tales of myth and legend. Some say it is where the last dragon in Britain was killed. In Cenarth you’ll find dramatic river falls and an unusual museum of coracles – one of the oldest forms of river transport. Rest up in one of the riverside teashops or traditional Welsh Inns before heading back down the river to complete your walk.
■ In spring, when local flora bursts into colour, a visit to two of Carmarthenshire’s iconic gardens, Aberglasney Gardens and the National Botanic Garden of Wales, is a must. You can also sample a taste of springtime in Carmarthenshire’s renowned restaurants, pubs and markets where fresh local produce features on the menu.
This tourism initiative is jointly funded by the UK Government’s Levelling Up Fund and Carmarthenshire County Council: discovercarmarthenshire.com