FURTHER INFORMATION
Map: The Ordnance Survey OL 35 ‘North Pembrokeshire’ covers the area.
Further reading: Pembroke’s prifardd is Waldo Williams, and his poetry is essential to gain an historical and cultural understanding of this remarkable small corner of Wales. The collection to look for is Dail Pren (Gwasg Aberystwyth, 1957) – one of the high points of 20th-century Welsh verse, mystically rooted in this marvellous landscape. There is also an excellent cycle of novels, the Angel Mountain Saga by Brian John, who lives just above Trefdraeth and just below Carn Ingli, and who I first met in the 1980s when we were both resisting the plans for more nuclear power in Wales. The bookshop proprietor at the foot of Market Street will gladly sell you the first half-dozen volumes of Brian’s saga, or maybe she’ll take pity if she knows you’re bent on completing the coastal path and limit herself to pressing the first volume on you. Whatever she offers, give it a try – Brian is a highly knowledgeable and informed writer, rooted in this area.
Facilities: Newport (Trefdraeth) has an outstandingly good pub, The Golden Lion, just a few yards along the Aberteifi road from the crossroads at the foot of Market Street. It has rooms, excellent food, fine ales, perfect chips (there’s a good standard by which to judge a pub!) and one of the best bars you’ll ever feel absolutely at home in. Though be warned – it’s the local of R4’s long-time and combative presenter John Humphrys. That said, he’s nothing like so formidable in this context as he was on air skewering politicians by the dozen! My favourite from amongst Newport/Trefdraeth’s many cafés is Y Blas at Fronlas – on Market Street, which leads directly to the foot of Carn Ingli.
So, caffeine up at a table outside in the sun and set forth on the exceedingly steep ascent of our little mountain!