Jamie Goode
Our expert raises a glass to seven of the best Chardonnays around
There’s something remarkable about the Chardonnay grape variety. It grows just about anywhere, from cool climates to warm, and it’s capable of making such a wide style of wines – steely, unoaked examples from Chablis, sun-kissed examples from Australia and even the Blanc de Blancs Champagnes. Here I’ve chosen some more serious examples of Chardonnay, but all offering good quality and value.
Vergelegen Reserve Chardonnay 2022, Stellenbosch, South Africa, 13.5% alcohol, £18.50, Lekkerwines, Noble Green Wines, London End Wines
This is quite delicate with a core of fresh citrus fruit, then some subtle ripe pear and yellow plum notes as well as just a trace of fine spicy oak. It’s a very refined expression of South African Chardonnay.
Rosemount Estate Regional Vineyard Series Chardonnay 2021, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 12.5% alcohol, £12, Asda This is a great example of modern Australian Chardonnay – it’s bright, fresh and fine with appealing pineapple and lemon fruit. It has nice energy and the oak is well integrated, contributing a fine spicy overlay.
Penfolds Max’s Chardonnay 2023, Adelaide Hills, Australia, 12.5% alcohol, £15, Asda
Another good example of new wave Australian Chardonnay, this offers bright lemony fruit, with good acidity keeping the richer peach and pineapple fruit in focus.
Josh Cellars Chardonnay 2022, California, 13.5% alcohol, £17.99, Majestic, £14.99 mix six price
This is a good example of California Chardonnay, with fermentation in tank followed by ageing in barrel. It’s rich, weighty and toasty with bold pear and peach flavours, plus some creaminess.
Arnaud Aucoeur Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes 2022, Beaujolais Villages, France, 13% alcohol, £15.95, Yapp
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From limestone soils, this is a layered, rich expression of Chardonnay offering pear and peach fruit with a nice lemony brightness on the finish. There’s lovely weight in the mouth, but it stays fresh.
Nespoli Da Maggio Chardonnay 2022, IGT Forli, Italy, 13.5% alcohol, £13.99, Laithwaites
From Emilia Romagna, this is a really full-flavoured Chardonnay. Yellow in colour, it offers lovely vivid fruit with some pear and yellow plum notes, and a hint of peachy richness. No oak in the way here, just classy, ripe fruit.
Craggy Range Kidnappers Vineyard Chardonnay 2020, Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand, 13% alcohol, £19.99, Waitrose
Hawke’s Bay is a region in New Zealand with a special talent for Chardonnay, and this one has freshness and intense citrus and peach flavours at the same time.