e presidential election was a constant presence at Fashion Week, but that didn’t overshadow the collections, says Henrik Lischke
NOVEMBER’S IMPENDING US elections are no childsplay and the country’s pressurecooker mood is amplified on all levels of everyday life – even at New York Fashion Week. Kicking o proceedings was fashion’s First Lady, Anna Wintour, who hosted a pro-voting march in midtown Manhattan, dressed in a ‘Fashion For Our Future’ slogan T-shirt and a striped skirt. She was joined by Dr Jill Biden, fresh from attending Ralph Lauren’s show in the Hamptons the night before, and Michael Kors, who’s always had a knack for dressing powerful women around the globe, including Kamala Harris. ‘What is important for me is that everyone is reminded that it is a great right for us to be able to vote in a democratic election, and hopefully people register and vote,’ he told Grazia. Can we expect to see Harris in more of his designs? ‘It’s a great honour to dress Kamala Harris. She’s worn our clothes for years and we hope to continue to dress her.’ Megaphones aside, election-themed merch, hung next to the iconic ‘I Heart NY’ T-shirts, put a new spin on street fashion. As for the most anticipated event during NYFW? The first presidential debate between Harris and Trump, for which even the MTV VMAS were moved.
Other New York designers used their show slots to call for action. New York’s name-to-know, Willy Chavarria, showed a collection titled América, dissecting life in the country through the eyes of an immigrant. On the seats in the Wall Street venue, everyone found a copy of the US constitution and, after the show, stickers that read ‘Willy says vote’ were handed out.
‘I think [the constitution] is something that we should all have in our possession, so we can check it every now and then to make sure things are really happening as they should,’ the designer said backstage. ‘Ultimately, [the collection] is a story of empowerment, because it’s really about the fact that all of us belong, all of us have purpose and all of us have the ability to make change in this country, especially starting with the vote,’ he continued.
At Area, ‘Bans O Our Bodies’ pins on the benches made a comment on reproductive rights, while Prabal Gurung took his
nal bow in a graphic tee that read ‘Vote’. But amid all the political chat there was still plenty of fashion to be seen that, above all else, sparked joy. A flurry of international brands relocated to NYC for the season, tapping into the ease of Americanness in fashion. e late Virgil Abloh’s O -White, now helmed by stylist and Dazed magazine editor-in-chief Ib Kamara, ditched the streets of Paris to bring the brand back to its roots, and to honour its founder. ‘I think it’s good for the brand to come home. We wanted to show in New York for a long time
and, when I was young, [being] from Sierra Leone, America was this dream place, full of hope, and I think that’s the essence of the collection,’ said Kamara of his show that was set against the backdrop of the New York skyline on a Brooklyn pier, joined by the likes of Mary J Blige and Zayn Malik.
Another practical reason to seek refuge from the European legs of fashion month is the buoyant US market, which, unlike the dwindling retail landscape in Europe, still packs a punch. An opportunity realised by Alaïa’s Pieter Mulier, who moved this season’s show from Paris to New York’s Guggenheim Museum, bringing with him a taste of haute couture and, more importantly, Rihanna, who sat front row. A savvy move, no doubt, as you can’t turn a corner on the Upper East Side without catching sight of his viral mesh ballet flats, which still hold the fashion set in thrall.
is is something Veronica Beard knows a thing or two about. The brand’s logo-free Dash bag is selling out with retailers in the country, and the brand got another turbo boost during fashion week, as the Princess of Wales appeared in a quintessential Beard boho dress in her now-viral Instagram video. ‘Ringing in NYFW and the Veronica Beard Dash bag at The Nines was a blast and a night we won’t forget. Banks performed and so many special people came out to support us,’ said Veronica Swanson Beard about the launch event, which drew in the crowds.
Elsewhere, contemporary brands like Nanushka, Toteme and COS also showed in New York. For Hungarian brand Nanushka designer Sandra Sándor, the city is the birthplace of her career, while the Scandi appeal of COS and Toteme chimes logically with the simplicity of American fashion. ‘It’s the third time we’re showing in New York,’ said Karin Gustafsson, creative director at COS. ‘We feel a synergy with the city. There’s a timelessness to it, but it’s creative and dynamic at the same time.’
It goes without saying that the stalwarts of American fashion – Tory Burch, Tommy Hil ger, Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Stuart Vevers – are still the greatest showmen. But even they took it upon themselves to reinvent American wardrobe icons. At Coach, this materialised in ‘I Heart NY’ tees, satin minidresses and cropped biker jackets. ‘It’s a group of characters that are taking American classics and reinventing them for today, making them their own. That’s what I love about New York style,’ Vevers said about the collection. ‘I’m really fascinated by how the new generation is rediscovering American classics for the rst time and seeing those things with fresh eyes. To me it makes it really inspiring to reinvestigate that.’
After taking over the Grand Central Oyster Bar last season, Tommy Hil ger opted for another landmark, a decommissioned Staten Island ferry (now owned by Pete Davidson and Colin Jost) to showcase a ‘nautical, preppy and collegiate collection’ as he put it ahead of his show, with a stealth nod to his brand’s ties to ’90s hip-hop culture with a live performance by the Wu-tang Clan. Naturally, the crowd – including Brooke Shields and Erykah Badu – went wild.
Tory Burch continued her directional design approach, returning to a steadfast reference in American fashion: sportswear. Sequinned bathing suits, track pants and the return of her iconic ballet flat in new, elevated ways saw the designer push the boundaries of her vision for the brand. ‘I’ve been obsessed with sport my whole life,’ said Burch a er the show. ‘It’s the precision, the power, the solace of sports for me, that was where the collection started. Then it was: how do you take that and not be literal?’
Meanwhile, Michael Kors’ spring/summer collection, inspired by Capri and the Net ix remake of e Talented Mr Ripley, suggested the return of crisp cotton shirts, leather sequins and ra a – and sunnier days ahead. ‘When it gets warm, let’s stay with things that have an easiness and something relaxed and, quite honestly, very American, because I think people want to be comfortable even at night, and I’ve always thought that,’ he said in a collection preview. Comfortable yet chic dressing? at will always get our vote.