HAVINGABALL
Continues his ‘Special Places to Visit in Derbyshire and the Peak District’ series with a trip to Ashbourne
THE historic market town of Ashbourne lies in the valley of Henmore Brook and on the edge of the Peak District National Park. This has led to it being frequently referred to as the “Gateway to Dovedale and the Peak District”.
But Ashbourne is much more than a mere gateway, with its many fine buildings, bustling market and busy shops. It is a town to stop and explore and enjoy the numerous surprises to be found in its ancient streets, cobbled Market Place, hidden alleys and yards.
Conservation area status has protected most of the town since 1968.
Originally, the town lay only to the north of Henmore Brook, with the tiny hamlet of Compton to the south. However, by the 13th century trade prospered in Compton as taxes could be avoided by trading on that side of the Henmore.
Ashbourne itself, being crown property, had to pay dues to the king. Both have been long joined together, but the old village name has been remembered by the retention of the street name of Compton.
Nowadays the most important distinction remembered by those interested in Royal Shrovetide Football is that people who live north of Henmore Brook are referred to as Up’ards, and those to the south as Down’ards.
This decides the sides for the famous Royal Shrovetide football games, which take place on Shrove Tuesday and Ash Wednesday every year. The goals are three miles apart and traditionally the game is played without rules, although one ancient rule is that you must not murder your opponent, to which one or two others have been added.
The game used to start in the Market Place but was moved to the Shaw Croft car park to try to avoid unnecessary damage from the roughhouse that follows.
After the singing of the National Anthem, the ball is “turned up”, usually by a celebrity who throws it to the assembled crowd for mayhem to begin. In 1922, the people of Ashbourne sent Princess Mary, daughter of George V, a Shrovetide ball on her marriage to Lord Lascelles. She accepted its as a wedding gift and bestowed it “royal” patronage.
Ashbourne grew as a market centre at the junction of several roads, the most important being the old main road linking London and Manchester. This passes through Macclesfield and Leek before reaching Ashbourne and heading to Derby.
Stagecoaches regularly used the route in the 18th century and Ashbourne was an important stoppingoff place. The significance of the town during that period was highlighted by the census of 1676 when Ashbourne’s population exceeded that of Derby.
When horse-drawn transport began to be replaced by the railway, Ashbourne failed to get mainline status, only being allowed a branch line to Uttoxeter. The line brought many tourists bound for Dovedale, where they could enjoy a walk in beautiful surroundings and return home, all on the same day.
Ashbourne has managed over the centuries to preserve much of its architectural character.
During the period from 1700 to 1820 fashionable brick and stone townhouses replaced the former medieval buildings.
The advent of the railways and the Victorian era saw several small industries set up. However, Ashbourne’s medieval layout with a long straight main street and a large triangular Market Place remained largely unchanged. The Market Place, though, has been encroached upon by buildings and is now much smaller than the original design.
St Oswald’s Church, situated on the edge of the town, is one of the most admired landmarks in the county, with its graceful spire rising to 212ft, it attracts large numbers of visitors.
The current building is mainly early English in design and was built in the early 13th century.
Nothing remains of the former Norman church, although a Norman crypt was found during the 19th century.
Inside there is a large collection of impressive statues, with the sculpture of Penelope Boothby in pure white Carrara attracting the most attention.
The brass plaque commemorating the consecration of 1241 is claimed to be the oldest of its kind remaining in this country, but building work continued on the transepts and nave until 1280.
The Old Grammar School was founded in 1585 by the royal charter of Queen Elizabeth. Four hundred years later, another Queen Elizabeth, the Second this time, visited Ashbourne to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the school.
Over the years the school had become too small to meet the needs of the 20th century and a new school was built in Green Road.
The old school continued in use for many years after that, but in 1997, the decision to sell the Grade I listed building was taken.
The pavement cobbles outside the Old Grammar School came from the River Dove and are scheduled as an ancient monument.
At the top of the cobbled Market Place, the Wright Memorial was erected, in memory of Francis Wright a benefactor to the town, but not universally popular. His action in putting a stop to the annual fair, of which he disapproved, and his efforts to stop Shrovetide football did not go down well with many of the inhabitants.