Château La Dominique, St-Emilion GCC 2019 (15%)
£59.17-£61.83 Cru, Millésima $50-$99
B-21, Calvert Woodley, Millesima USA, Saratoga Wine Exchange, The Wine Connection
This is a splendid example of the pleasure the Right Bank’s most extensive appellation can bring in the very fine 2019 vintage, which combines depth and ripeness with freshness. One sniff of this wine will have you in its thrall: look out for layers of sumptuous, plump bramble and plum fruits given high-definition focus and a tempered sweetness from the season. The palate is long, expansive and deeply satisfying, perfectly poised on the cusp between the sweet tones of youth and the more sober grandeur that comes with age. The tannins are ample but tender, and the acidity almost contrives to suggest (in combination with that fruit and those tannins) the acidity you’ll find in fine dark chocolate. Assured winemaking with what are clearly outstanding raw materials from a propitious site.
Château La Dominique has been owned by the Fayat family since 1969, acquired by the father of present owner Jean-Claude Fayat, who recalls that time with fondness: ‘When my father bought Dominique, I was 11 years old. I didn’t miss a single harvest and La Dominique has always been my favourite,’ he says.
La Dominique’s winning wine marks the 50th vintage of Fayat ownership, the château being situated in the northwest corner of the appellation, on the edge of Pomerol, its vineyards nudging up against the likes of Cheval Blanc, Figeac, La Conseillante and L’Evangile; hallowed land that, as general manager Gwendeline Lucas details, they cherish and always strive to let shine: ‘Every day we try to be as close as possible to the terroir so as to highlight it in each vintage. We have divided the vineyard into many individual plots, so as to be very precise in the way we manage each variety regarding the type of soil. The 85% Merlot in the blend gives generosity, and mixed with the freshness of 13% Cabernet Franc [the residual 2% being mopped up by Cabernet Sauvignon], we get a very elegant and complex wine.’ ▶