12 to try: Evans’ mixed case of wines offering real value
1 Victor Ausejo, Parcella 333 2022 93
£26 Kernowine
Garnacha Blanca is nowhere near Viura in the popularity stakes in Rioja, which is a pity. As Victor Ausejo proves, from a 2ha plot in Rioja Oriental, Garnacha Blanca can reveal a ripe, rounded wine, refreshed by notes of grapefruit peel, with a saline, mineral finish. Long and deliciously gastronomic. Drink 2024-2028 Alcohol 13.5%
2 Ramón Bilbao, Límite Norte 2017 92
£19.95 Wine Republic
From the far northwest of Rioja, in Cuzcurrita, where there are cooler Atlantic influences. A modern blend of Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca, it’s rounded and full, with notes of apple and lime, and a vividly crisp freshness. It’s fermented in concrete and then aged in concrete, amphora and oak – a combination that delivers a clean, savoury, mineral finish. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 12.5%
Muga, Blanco 2022 91
£14.95-£17.60 Carrington Wines, Christopher Piper Wines, Frazier’s Wine Merchants, KWM, Majestic, Nickolls & Perks, Waud Wines The good-value little brother of Flor de Muga Blanco. Fermented in lightly toasted oak vats and casks, it then spends four months in oak to give a subtle oak infuence and a little more complexity. This is a creamy, full-flavoured white, with brisk citrus notes, rounded out by white peach. Drink 2024-2027 Alc 14%
3 Bodega 220 Cántaras, Tremendus Clarete 2022 91
£12.50 Buon Vino
I spotted this at the importer’s ‘bang for buck’ table at a tasting. Quite right! 220 Cántaras is making some engaging wines using skin maceration and solera ageing, and this drink-me-now rosado from Cordovín begins with a white and a red variety macerated on skins. A juicy dry rosado, harking back to the classic claretes of Rioja; great served cool alongside pasta and cured meats. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 13%
Sierra Cantabria, Rosado 2022 91
£13.24-£15.20 Great Wines Direct, Honest Grapes, The Fine Wine Co
Expressive, aromatic rosado that’s laden with red and black berries. The palate is bright with berries, with a hint of pomegranate and even grapefruit. Tempranillo, in my opinion, does not make the best rosados, but this blend (with 60% Viura and 30% Grenache) is a smart, pleasurable solution. Full-flavoured and food-friendly. Drink 2024-2026 Alc 13%
4 La Rioja Alta, Viña Ardanza Reserva 2016 95
£24.99-£34.99 Widely available
Viña Ardanza is one of those wines that