MY PERFECT DAY IN HERZEGOVINA
MORNING
Start on the rebuilt Ottoman-era bridge in Mostar (pictured, p80), the symbol of the historic regional capital. Each August or September, the 16th-century bridge becomes a venue for the Red Bull Cliff Diving World Series, as divers leap more than 20m into the Neretva river flowing below. Mostar’s UNESCO World Heritagelisted old town area abutting the bridge is a warren of craft stores, weaving enterprises and cafés. Sample a Bosnian coffee, a foamy version of the drink introduced by the Ottoman Turks, who ruled Herzegovina for more than 400 years. Overlooking the river is standout classic Restaurant Šadrvan (see ‘Address book’, p85), where a halal Balkan menu takes diners back centuries. Finish with a speedboat tour along the Neretva, passing under the Ottoman bridge.
AFTERNOON
The region’s most complete viticultural experience is Carski vineyard (see p84),a 20-minute taxi ride south of Mostar. It looks like a chic Napa estate. Wines to purchase or taste in the ultra-modern cellar rank among Herzegovina’s finest. The olive tree-strewn vineyards make for a wonderful stroll. Carski sits on the outskirts of adventure village Blagaj, home to rafting operators and a via ferrata climbing trail. It’s also the location of a gorgeous whirling dervish monastery (p85), enchantingly located alongside a surging river.
EVENING
Continue 30 minutes southeast through a series of wine-growing villages via the Catholic pilgrimage site of Međugorje. Near the awesome waterfall of Kravica is Nuić winery (vinogradinuic.com). Here, Žilavka and Blatina are grown alongside rare Croatian grapes, as well as a number of international varieties; a one-hour tour and tasting costs €12.50. Nearby, Etno Selo Herceg (etno-herceg.com) is a hotel complex of 50 stone villas featuring Slavonian oak furniture, together with a large swimming pool. The estate serves fine food and its own wines alongside those from top wineries, including Nuić and Brkić.