Fowey’s got cruise for you!
While no one would describe it as a thing of beauty, it was, nonetheless, an enthralling sight: a ten-storey ocean liner the size of a tower block amid the yachts and fishing boats in a historic little Cornish harbour.
That was the sight which greeted the residents of Fowey when they opened the curtains on Saturday morning. Soon afterwards, the 1,250 (mainly German) passengers on board the 58,000-ton Portuguese-registered ship, Vasco da Gama, were being ferried ashore to enjoy a brief taste of Cornwall. in an instant, the local population increased by 50 per cent.
There was, though, no flood of complaints to the harbour authorities. indeed, the locals seemed delighted to see the cruise passengers, as i discovered for myself when i turned up in Fowey that same day.
This was not the first time a cruise ship has reversed into the town (there is not enough room to turn round so these things are towed in backwards). But it is a rare occurrence and the ship was out on the next tide. Fowey is still talking about the day another whopper, the 60,000-ton Spirit of Adventure, operated by Saga Cruises, visited last September. The big ships are good for local business. True, some passengers get straight on a coach to the eden Project and only buy a fridge magnet before piling back on board in time for the all-youcan-eat buffet.
however, there are hefty harbour dues and Fowey enjoys a healthy increase in footfall as tourists from miles around drop in for the drama and the spectacle. i strongly recommend a visit any time. Unlike some Cornish stalwarts, Fowey has both soul and substance. Daphne du Maurier wrote her books here (spot the pretty cottage next to the Bodinnick ferry) and still has family in Fowey.
its deep-water harbour not only means it can accommodate ships like the Vasco da Gama but it is still very much a working port, exporting Cornish china clay around the world. Fowey was a D-Day hub, too. it has a thriving warren of period cottages, houses and shops – including several first class bakeries – plus boats, boats and more boats.
There are a handful of traditional hotels right on the water and some enchanting holiday cottages and flats. i stayed at Marners Rock, pure Cornish charm on the outside plus style and modcons within. Around the corner, in places like Atlantic Bay, are many fine, uncrowded beaches.
The really big event this month has not been the cruise ship but this week’s annual regatta. Fowey is festooned with bunting while there are bands, fireworks, a carnival and a procession through the streets including the world’s biggest Cornish pasty.
it manages to feel timeless and charming, without being twee or artificial – and friendly too. As the Vasco da Gama heaved up its vast anchors and squeezed out to sea on Saturday evening, the locals lined the esplanade to wave – and the horn of the Royal Fowey Yacht Club honked a fond farewell.
■ MARNERS rock has onebedroom, three-bedroom and four-bedroom apartments for seven nights from £1,175, £1,745 and £2,485 respectively (marnersrock.co.uk). Visit fowey.co.uk for more info.