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Dear Reader

- Harriet Sime DEPUTY TRAVEL EDITOR

WHAT is going on with the weather? We had to unpack our raincoats earlier this week as storms brought torrential rain, thunder and unseasonab­ly cold temperatur­es to much of the UK.

It’s been a different story across Europe. In Italy, hot air from Africa sent temperatur­es soaring above 40C this week, causing at least four deaths, while in Greece air-conditione­d spaces have been opened up to the public, outdoor work banned and towns and villages evacuated due to wildfires.

It paints a confusing picture for travel planning; stay in the UK and it could be too cold for barbecues and fish and chips on the beach. Hop across the Channel and exploring and sunbathing could be an uncomforta­ble and even dangerous experience.

When package holidays took off in the 1950s and 60s, Britons headed to Spain for the one thing the UK has never been able to provide: reliable sunshine. This tradition to head south in pursuit of warm weather has become a highlight of our calendars.

But climate change is forcing change quickly — and many predict we’ll begin looking north for our holidays to destinatio­ns such as Denmark, Finland and Sweden (pictured). We may need to be more spontaneou­s in our decisions; booking last minute when the weather forecast in the UK is warm, or the temperatur­es in Europe look reasonable.

But this could make travel the preserve of the rich who can afford sky-high last-minute prices. Plus, it would remove one of the best things about travel; the anticipati­on of a holiday. The longing for that first dip in the sea or glass of wine while getting ready for dinner.

So get set for another scorching summer in Europe. It’s only just begun.

walls are scattered across the palm-fringed streets of its old town.

The coastline here is Adriatic with the best beaches to be found 14 miles away in the suburb of Golem — a seemingly endless deep stretch of soft blonde sand.

For sports fans there’s an extra draw. Tennis ace Rafael Nadal is set to launch an academy here next door to the Manchester City football school.

An eight-hour overnight passenger ferry sails from Bari in Italy directly to Durres. DON’T MISS: The remains of a gargantuan 20,000-capacity Roman amphitheat­re were found here in 1966 (admission £2.50). You can enter via the gladiators’ tunnel. WHERE TO STAY: Rooms come with balconies at the five-star Premium Hotel

(premiumbea­chhotel.com) which has two pools, a private beach, an Indonesian spa and an award-winning chef. Doubles from £136 all-inclusive.

MORE IN VLORE

THIS seaside resort is two hours from Tirana and is where the Adriatic Sea merges with the Ionian — considered the start of the ‘Albanian Riviera’ — and heading south from here you’ll find the crème de la crème of coastal hotspots.

Vlore is Albania’s third largest city with a lively old town, a seafront boulevard and a fine-stone public beach.

The Karaburun Peninsula (Albania’s only National Marine Park) is prominent on the horizon and physically splits the darker waters of the Adriatic from the electric turquoise Ionian.

Donald Trump’s daughter Ivanka is a big fan and it’s rumoured that her husband Jared is hoping to develop a luxury ecoresort on the uninhabite­d island of Sazan. DON’T MISS: A half-day boat trip takes in the island of Sazan as well as the Karaburun Peninsula, home to bat caves, marine life and remote beaches. Pack a swimsuit, so you can dive and snorkel off the boat. Departs daily at 10am (aquamarine-adventure.al).

WHERE TO STAY: The Marina Bay Resort

(marinabay.al) is a chi-chi establishm­ent in the city’s outskirts with a stunning infinity pool, private beach and casino. Doubles from £85 B&B. DELIGHTFUL DHERMI

ASK Albanians to name their favourite seaside resort and they’ll say Dhermi. It’s quiet and unique in that it’s made up of beaches as well as a hillside village.

In 1956 an earthquake devastated the area, but a local couple renovated some abandoned houses and turned them into the boutique hotel Zoe Hora — pop star Dua Lipa was its first guest.

Climb to the tiny 15th century church and not only will you be rewarded with a panorama over the bay, but you’ll also find a cemetery with the world’s best view.

DON’T MISS: You’ll spot beehives along the winding mountain roads that lead to Dhermi as well as stalls selling honey for a fiver. You can taste before you buy. WHERE TO STAY: Follow in Dua Lipa’s footsteps by staying at Zoe Hora (zoehora.

com ). The price is worth it for the spa, pool and view. Doubles from £127 B&B.

HIMARA HOTSPOT

ALBANIA’S entire Ionian coastline is fringed by mountains carpeted with pink and white oleander and Himare sprawls from high in these hills right down to the shimmering blue sea.

Maracit and Potami are both excellent beaches, but it’s worth hiring a car to explore less discovered bays (just watch out for road-crossing goats).

That said, the best beaches are ones which can’t be accessed by wheels. A steep downhill trek leads to the hidden

Filikuri beach (hold on to the ropes), which is hemmed in by sheer cliffs.

Vertigo sufferers might prefer to hire a kayak and paddle there. Himare’s old town has a promenade ideal for a sunset stroll. DON’T MISS: The 19th-century castle of Porto Palermo was built during the country’s 500-year spell in the Ottoman Empire and is on an island attached to the mainland by a causeway (entrance £2.50). Wander along its battlement­s for great sea views before laying a towel on its beach. WHERE TO STAY: Rooms come with a balcony at three-star seafront Anxhelos Hotel

(booking.com). Doubles from £42 B&B.

SEDUCED BY SARANDA

A MAJOR port near the Albanian Riviera’s southern tip, there are internatio­nal boats arriving here daily, both from Corfu

(a 30-minute hydrofoil ride away) and from Brindisi in Italy, an eighthour overnight journey. The town bustles with shops, bars and restaurant­s — and has a central promenade. To escape the crowds, book a tall ship excursion with Pegasus Travel and Tours to the remote Krorez Beach. The water is a pale blue and the beach restaurant serves a feast of grilled cod, fries and salads, included in the £42pp fare. Be prepared: the ship’s return journey involves dancing and a very entertaini­ng foam party. Lekursi Castle, overlooks the Corfu Straits, is the best spot for sunset.

DON’T MISS: Dental Fish. Its name might look comic on the menu, but this fragrant local fish is served regularly in restaurant­s. It is like a slightly meatier version of sea bass.

WHERE TO STAY: The five-star Bougainvil­le Hotel (bougainvil­lebay.com) has multiple pools, a private beach and a fabulous breakfast terrace. Doubles from £50 B&B.

‘MALDIVIAN’ IN KSAMIL

KSAMIL has such an iridescent turquoise sea that Instagramm­ers have dubbed it the ‘Maldives of Europe’. Unfortunat­ely, this has made it somewhat busy. For a quieter beach, hire a pedalo (£13) to one of four outlying islands — two of which are connected by a spit of sand.

Ten minutes away by car is the jewel in the crown of Albania’s cultural sites, the ancient UNESCO World Heritage city of Butrint. Here you’ll find turtles alongside archaeolog­ical remains dating as far back as the 6th-century

BC and include Roman baths as well as Hellenisti­c gateways.

Better still, the surroundin­g forest offers a welcome respite from the sun. Butrint is also a popular day trip. DON’T MISS: The farmed mussels from nearby Lake Butrint have superior flavour thanks to the water’s unique fresh and saltwater combinatio­n. Grab a beachfront table at Poda restaurant and order a bowl for £8. WHERE TO STAY: The stylish 20-room Poda Boutique Hotel (podahotel.al) has an enviable seafront location. Doubles cost from £76, half-board.

TRAVEL FACTS

WIZZ Air has London-Tirana flights from £12.99 one way (wizzair.com).

Or Finikas Lines (finikas-lines.com) offers return voyages from Corfu from £88 return. Car hire costs from £25 a day (avis.co.uk). See akt.gov.al.

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 ?? ?? Star attraction: Dua Lipa is a fan of the Albanian Riviera including the bustling Saranda, above
Star attraction: Dua Lipa is a fan of the Albanian Riviera including the bustling Saranda, above
 ?? ?? Local hero: Spinach and cheese pastries called byrek are an Albanian favourite
Local hero: Spinach and cheese pastries called byrek are an Albanian favourite

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