DANCING TO RIGA’S TUNE
The Latvian capital won’t break the bank, and there’s plenty on offer from ballet to fine dining
AMAN flies over the stage. We watch and, with fingers crossed, hope that the harness holds. He is one of the technical crew, testing equipment for the opening night of a new ballet.
Our tour of Riga’s National Opera House gives a behind-the- scenes peek into this local institution. In a dressing room, a rail displays pearl-coloured tutus. The ballerinas have gone home, but we see the barres where they practise pliés.
We get to stand on stage, watching the set being created and, most impressive of all, is the auditorium itself, all red velvet swag and gold leaf. A seat in a box for ballets and operas here costs as little as ¤12 (£10.50), and even the best seats are just ¤50 (£44).
What’s more, BA now flies direct to Riga, the Latvian capital. Return prices rival those of the budget airlines, and hotels are great value, too, meaning a fivestar break can be bagged for three- star prices in most other European cities.
Riga in winter is chilly, but it’s a smart time to visit, especially when there’s a pretty dusting of snow. The city claims to be home to the world’s first decorated Christmas tree. There are plenty of cafés and restaurants to warm up in. A Riga Black Balsam — a 45 per cent alcohol herbal liqueur — does the job nicely. As does the food. I imagined hearty, stodgy fare (and you get some of that with the traditional dish of ‘Grey Peas’, which is much better than it sounds). However, Riga embraces many different cuisines and is gaining a foodie reputation.
We stay at the stylish Grand Poet Hotel, smack in the heart of the city, where we feast on Asian ‘tapas’ at the Skyline Bar, with 26th floor city views.
Then there’s lunch at Chef’s Corner, with its butter soft steaks. Star of the show though is dinner at The Three Chefs. Housed in the old Swedish barracks, this place buzzes — even on a cold Monday night. Whipped goats cheese with beetroot, smoked plums and birch sap syrup is followed by pikeperch, with leek and butter sauce then a tangy mango and white chocolate dessert.
Riga is easily explored on foot, dotted with parks and intersected by the River Daugava. The historic centre has Unesco World Heritage status for its melange of architecture, which neatly leads visitors through its history — medieval to modern, via Soviet brutalist and art nouveau. Riga has the highest concentration of art nouveau buildings in the world.
The Soviet influence comes courtesy of more than 50 years as part of the USSR. The Freedom Monument pierces the sky (with Latvia’s ‘Liberty’ statue atop) and celebrates independence after World War I for just 20 years and again in 1991.
We learn more of the struggle for independence via paintings and sculptures at the Latvian National Museum of Art.
Our stay finishes, as it started, with food. The recently refurbished Agenskalns market is Riga’s oldest. It sells everything from blackcurrant gin to black bread, while the upstairs mezzanine is a food court.
We dip into it all, with Khachapuri — a boat shaped Georgian flat bread, with salty cheese and runny egg yolk in the middle — a particular favourite.
I can think of several reasons to return to Riga — this particular dish has given me one more.
TRAVEL FACTS
British Airways Holidays offers two nights at the Grand Poet Hotel by Semarah from £189pp on a roomonly basis, travelling in February 2024, including return flights from Heathrow and one checked bag at 23 kg per person. Book by January 3, at ba.com/holidays