Conquering Peaks and Hearts
K2 holds a special place in my heart. It’s not only the world’s second-highest mountain but also the most beautiful to me, with its perfect triangle shape. However, it’s known as the Savage Mountain because it’s so dangerous, claiming the lives of many climbers, including friends and people I know. Each climb is a tribute to those who have died and a testament to the mountain’s incredible, aweinspiring power.”
Naila Kiani, a Dubai-based Pakistani mountaineer, embodies both bravery and compassion. Her transition from an amateur to a top climber, all while balancing motherhood and a professional career, demonstrates that determination and self-belief can conquer the highest peaks and inspire others
Beauty, brains, and courage define Naila Kiani, a Dubaibased Pakistani expatriate who exemplifies that bravery transcends age and gender. On her latest expedition, mountaineer Kiani brought closure to the loved ones of Hassan Shigri, who tragically lost his life last year at the bottleneck of K2 at 8,200 metres. Her actions remind us that true bravery comes with a compassionate heart. Kiani has not only set new standards with her courage but has also shown that humanity thrives through her remarkable deeds.
Speaking to Khaleej Times about the most memorable moment of recovering the body of mountaineer Hassan Shigri, Kiani says: “It was considered impossible to bring a body down from such a high altitude. I was approached by Hassan’s family to help bring his body down as he had died a year ago.”
She further adds: “His family wanted closure and a respectful burial for Hassan, so I took on this mission despite having no funding and everything being very last minute. We coordinated with other teams to confirm the body’s location and waited for the right moment. The last challenge was getting a helicopter from the army due to bad weather. Miraculously, as soon as the body was brought down, we got a perfect weather window for the helicopter to pick it up and transport it to Hassan’s village. Everything happened so quickly.
Kiani credits Murad Sadpara, Akbar Sadpara, Zakir Sadpara, Ali Mohammed, and Dilawar Sadpara for their bravery and dedication in risking their lives to recover the body and bring to Hassan Shigri’s family.
Kiani describes it as an unforgettable experience, going from starting climbing only three years ago to leading one of the world’s riskiest expeditions is a significant achievement for her.
When asked what inspired her to start mountaineering and if there was a particular person or experience that motivated her, Kiani shared: “I was an amateur boxer, so I was already an athlete when I did my first trek to K2 Basecamp five years ago. Before that, I never thought I would become a mountaineer or a climber. Just before my trek, I watched a documentary about Everest where people died at the end. I couldn’t understand why people would risk their lives just to reach the top.
Going on daring adventures needs more than just courage. For Kiani, it was the excitement she saw in her fellow climbers that fuelled her. “When I saw professional climbers at K2 Basecamp, I was very inspired and curious. I wanted to experience what they felt. Even after coming back, I didn’t think I would ever climb. It wasn’t until a stranger saw my pictures at K2 basecamp in my wedding dress and invited me to join him on a 7000m peak that the idea of climbing took root in my mind. I had never considered climbing before, especially as a mother, but that invitation planted the seed.”
What started as a trial has grown into a profound passion for this exceptional mountaineer. Kiani looks back on a significant challenge in her career when others’ doubts and low expectations nearly discouraged her. Yet, her fierce determination helped her overcome this obstacle and achieve her goals. “Many doubted my ability, but I managed to climb 11 of the world’s highest peaks, all above 8,000m, in just three years. This is something that many men in Pakistan, even those born in the mountains and with funding and opportunity, can’t imagine doing. People didn’t believe in my ambitious plans, even when I was summiting peaks, I heard comments that I was just lucky or that I was carried by others to the top.”
Kiani reflects on the significance of representing Pakistan on the world’s highest peaks and how she hopes it will inspire others: “Climbing Gasherbrum I right after K2 in 2022 was my toughest challenge yet. With just three of us and severe weather, most of the mountain was unroped. Facing 70km/h winds on an exposed section, I considered turning back. But thinking of my two daughters, I pushed on despite the daunting climb of unroped rock and ice. I hope my journey inspires others to overcome their obstacles.”
Kiani embodies bravery and pride as she reflects on her journey: “Representing Pakistan on the world’s highest peaks was something I never imagined I would do, especially after having kids. As a married woman with two small children and a professional career, it seemed impossible. But if I can reach the highest peaks in the world and become one of the most accomplished female mountaineers, then anybody can achieve their goals. It’s about determination, passion, and believing in yourself, no matter the obstacles. If I can do it, so can you.”
Kiani’s final message is a powerful call to action for the youth: “Never give up on your dreams, no matter the obstacles. Avoid shortcuts and set ambitious goals. Work tirelessly, and don’t make excuses. Once you commit and invest your energy, the universe will align to help you achieve your aspirations.”