Independence state banquet at Phoenicia recreated ‘down to finest detail’
The state banquet that took place at a Valletta hotel on the eve of Independence Day will be recreated down to the finest detail 60 years later, tomorrow, complete with the menu, music and tableware of the time.
The idea to relive an important episode in Malta’s history came to The Phoenicia Malta following a Facebook post last year of the original menu by the grandson of the sommelier on the night.
This and other documents of special occasions at Malta’s first five-star hotel had been kept by Kelinu (Michael) Portelli, the island’s “first professional sommelier”, who considered them “trophies”, according to his grandson, David.
Stories of the sommelier’s work experiences had been recounted to his own father, who listened attentively and, in turn, had passed them on to his collector son. Both knew how much they meant to the sommelier.
“I have a garage full of treasured memorabilia, including these menus dating back to the early 1950s, which my grandfather cherished. He was proud of his work, I am proud of my input in having passed them on, and I am sure he will be proud of Friday’s occasion,” said Portelli about the grandfather he never met.
“It is an honour also for the staff at the time, who are not here today,” he said, adding that the hotel was his grandfather’s “life” and had a “special place in his heart”.
On the eve of Independence Day in 1964, the royal party, including the Duke of Edinburgh, Prime Minister George Borg Olivier, the architect of independent Malta, who set the September 21 date for the important milestone, and other dignitaries attended a state banquet at the hotel’s Grand Ballroom before making their way to the Independence Arena, in Floriana at midnight for the flag-raising ceremony.
Now, on the 60th anniversary, it is organising the Commemorative Independence Day Banquet, “meticulously designed to mirror the grandeur and elegance of the original dinner”.
Memorabilia from that celebration, including photos of the “special” night, will be on display, while Heritage Malta’s culinary arm, Taste Malta, will also be showcasing
tableware that was commissioned shortly after Independence by Borg Olivier.
The extensive collection of pure Maltese silver, semi-crystal glassware and Royal Dalton gold-trimmed porcelain, stored at the Grand Master’s Palace, was used at the Auberge d’Aragon, the prime minister’s seat before Castille, and in Maltese embassies, said Heritage Malta’s senior curator and collection manager, Emmanuel Magro Conti.
It was used for over 10 years but not since around 1976, he said, adding that the restoration of the palace’s dining room has just begun and that the items would be on display by the end of 2025.
Tomorrow, guests can take a closer look at the engraved coat of arms of
Independent Malta, depicting dolphin supports, and savour the same menu that was served on that historic evening 60 years ago.
Originally in French, as was customary then, the menu has been “explored” and translated into English by the hotel chefs, offering guests the opportunity to “step back in time and experience the ambience of that pivotal moment in Malta’s history”, the management said.
It includes Scottish smoked salmon, pottage St Germain and tournedos Princess, topped off with a soufflé ‘Sun Island’.
“Of course, we cannot serve the exact same wine. However, they will be similar,” the management said, referring to the original copy of the wine list in hand.
The organisers have also dug up a list of songs played during a concert that was part of the original celebrations and have engaged Dominic Galea and his band to play some of these tunes during the meal.
Photos from that evening 60 years ago have been sourced and helped to recreate the scene, although the hotel is opting for a different table setup that will offer a “similar feel”.
It has, however, ditched plans to recreate the uniforms for the F&B team, having sourced white jackets that did not fit the part.
Held in the ballroom again, it is being attended by President Myriam Spiteri Debono and Portelli too, who felt that “living the exact same moment as his grandfather did 60 years ago” would have a nostalgic element to it.
General manager Robyn Pratt said the “iconic” hotel was part of Malta’s history, which it celebrated and “brought to life”.
Everyone has a memory of The Phoenicia, which had already been around 18 years before Independence Day, she said.
The visitors’ book of that night in 1964 will also be on display, and guests will have the opportunity to leave their own signatures, making more memories to be celebrated in another 60 years, Pratt augured.
“It is all about memories and we are impressed to note that people want to be a part of this.”