Whispers of Johor’s early history
In the hallowed halls of the Kota Johor Lama Museum, stunning exhibits weave tales of empires and resilience, writes
AS the van rolls to a noisy stop on the gravel path, I emerge excitedly into the embrace of a picturesque day, greeted by the soft caress of a gentle breeze and vibrant hues of a Johor sky painted in brilliant blue.
Our journey, a winding route through rustic landscapes, has brought us from the bustling confines of Hard Rock Hotel Desaru Coast in Bandar Penawar, to the tranquil Kampung Johor Lama, a sleepy historical village steeped in the whispers of history.
The air seems to hang heavy with the scent of nostalgia, a soothing balm for the soul, punctuated only by the melodic strains of birdcalls that appear to dance merrily through the stillness.
Just up ahead, I spy a majestic wooden structure looming high on sturdy stilts, its architecture a poignant reminder of the traditional kampung houses that still dot many parts of our beautiful country.
The building seems to be calling out to us with quiet dignity, its presence a silent invitation to explore the stories that lay within.
His eyes lighting up with undisguised pride, our guide beckons us, a motley crew comprising award-winning photographers too, towards the Kota Johor Lama Museum, nestled amid the verdant embrace of nature.
As we ascend the weathered wooden steps that would lead us into its inner sanctum, seeking respite from the sweltering heat outside, a lone figure — a cheerful-looking pakcik (uncle) — greets our group with a warm smile from behind the information desk.
The museum, it appears, is awaiting our eager exploration, its silent halls echoing with the whispers of the past. Looks like we have the place to ourselves, I muse happily, as my eyes take in the space, eyes hungrily scanning the rows of framed paintings of this southern state’s early rulers.
BLAST FROM THE PAST
Time seems to stand still the moment I’m inside. Every corner, every nook and cranny, whispers softly tales of bygone days. My gaze wanders hungrily, before being drawn to a collection of weathered tombstones that I’m sure once stood sentinel, silent witnesses to the passage of time.
“Acehnese tombstones.” I read the description, before proceeding to trawl through the information board just next to it to get a better insight into Johor’s early history. Suddenly, the story of Johor Lama unfolds before me like a tapestry woven from the threads of time.
Johor Lama, located near the site of the former capital of the Johor Sultanate, Kota Batu, was established by Sultan Alauddin Riayat Shah II shortly after the fall of the Melaka Sultanate in 1511.
Kota Batu was sacked and burnt by Acehnese forces in 1564, and Alauddin was taken to Aceh and executed. The capital was then moved to Bukit Seluyut for a few years.
In the early 1570s, the new sultan, Ali Jalla, returned to Kota Batu and re-established the capital at Johor Lama. The Johor Sultanate had initially formed an alliance with the Portuguese against Aceh; however, Ali Jalla had proceeded to confiscate the cargo of a Portuguese ship that had been wrecked on the mouth of Sungai Johor.
In retaliation, the Portuguese stopped traders from Melaka from trading with Johor. Ali Jalla subsequently reacted by forcing ships to go to Johor Lama, before attacking Melaka in January 1587. As a result of this, the Portuguese implemented a blockade on Sungai Johor, and later in the year, under the command of Dom Paulo Lima de Pereira, they launched an attack on Johor Lama.
The fortified city was defended by 12,000 men, but the Portuguese prevailed and destroyed the fort. The capital of Johor was then moved to Batu Sawar located further upstream Sungai Johor.
Johor Lama was later rebuilt but was destroyed again in 1604 by the Portuguese. For some time, it continued to be used as a port for larger ships to unload their cargo, which could then be moved upstream to towns such as Batu Sawar.
Today, it’s a village complete with primary school, a mosque and the Kota Johor Lama Museum, undoubtedly its main tourist attraction.
In addition, there are numerous homestays run by villagers, whose main livelihood is fishing, which can be seen by the existence of three fishing piers located on the banks of Sungai Johor.
TREASURED REPOSITORY
Situated amid the historic grounds of Kota Johor Lama, the museum stands as a testament to the rich heritage of this ancient town. It was meticulously designed to preserve and showcase to visitors the multitude of artifacts discovered on-site.
Inspired by the architectural marvels of traditional Malay houses, the construction of the museum commenced in August 2004, culminating in its grand opening to the public in October 2007.
Built entirely from wood, with intricate mortise and peg joints adorning its main structure, the museum seamlessly blends into the fortified landscape of Kota Johor Lama, nestled among ancient mounds that whisper tales of bygone eras.
Within its hallowed halls, the museum houses a treasure trove of over 84 impressive collections, each meticulously curated to reflect the rich tapestry of Kota Johor Lama’s history.
From exquisite porcelain to formidable weapons, from intricate copperware to humble earthenware, the artifacts on display offer a glimpse into the daily lives and cultural practices of generations before us.
Divided into five meticulously curated sections, the exhibition galleries within the museum offer visitors a comprehensive exploration of Kota Johor Lama’s illustrious past.
From an introduction to the town’s origins to an in-depth exploration of governance, trade and warfare, each segment provides invaluable insights into the town’s evolution as a premier trading centre and seat of government.
Additionally, visitors can delve into the fascinating history of fortified cities along Sungai Johor, uncover the scattered remnants of Acehnese gravestones in the district of Kota Tinggi, and explore the archaeological research and findings that continue to shed light on Kota Johor Lama’s enduring significance.
As I continue to wander through the galleries, with only my thoughts for company, I find myself lost in history, and certainly, with no track of time or space.
“Hey, come out! Let’s take a group picture!”
The sudden holler from one of my friends pierces into my reverie, snapping me back to the present with a jolt.
Wow, it has been hours already, I muse to myself in surprise, before scrambling to take a final picture of some cannon balls uncovered from an excavation sometime in 1960.
“Comingggg,” I holler back, casting a final lingering look at a display case housing a row of pretty ceramics, before quickly bidding farewell to the museum. I wonder whether the walls can really hear, the thought crosses my mind.
As I rejoin the rest of my lively group on the weathered wooden steps outside, I suddenly find myself reluctant to leave this sanctuary of history and heritage.
But depart I must, but definitely with a newfound appreciation for the stories of this sleepy historical town. Amid the whispers of the past, I’d found a treasure — a glimpse into the soul of a nation, preserved for all eternity.