The Korea Herald

Chef of ‘world’s best restaurant’ Central shares insights in Seoul

Extensive research into the soil, climate and ingredient­s essential: Chef Martinez

Virgilio Martinez, founder and head chef of Peruvian restaurant Central, was in Seoul last week to share his insights on fine dining culture and offering exquisite experience­s to diners.

His was in Korea to take part in Nanro Insight, a global symposium on Korean food which was organized by the Nanro Foundation, a non-profit dedicated to the globalizat­ion of Korean food. The foundation, a community of some of the most influentia­l chefs and business operators in Korea’s food and beverage sector, was establishe­d in 2022.

“I personally thought fine dining was a culture only for a few. But there are many different levels (to fine dining). So the approach I took was to conceptual­ize fine dining as an experience, not as a restaurant,” Martinez told the audience during an event held at Leeum Museum of Art in Seoul on April 30.

According to the Peruvian chef, his fine dining spaces in Lima and Cusco offer a wholesome gastronomi­c experience, an experience that lasts about six hours.

Visitors can take a look into where the ingredient­s come from by walking on a farm the restaurant has created which was inspired by Peru’s unique biodiversi­ty deriving from the Andes Mountains.

“Eating food means experienci­ng the culture. Innovation doesn’t always have to start from scratch. We can begin with what we already have, like recipes passed down by our ancestors. There is a need to make collaborat­ion by respecting the past,” he added.

While highlighti­ng the message that people come to restaurant­s not just to eat food but to “fill the experience and heart,” Martinez said it’s really important to learn the country’s biodiversi­ty and cultural context.

To this end, Central has its own food ingredient­s research center called Mater, where it has been continuing its extensive research into Peruvian soil, climate and ingredient­s.

“Through Mater, we were able to record data. Understand­ing the origin of our ingredient­s in both social and cultural contexts is very important. We have 4,000 kinds of potatoes and that has to do with rich Peruvian soil that grows so many diverse root vegetables,” Martinez said.

He emphasized the purpose of Mater’s establishm­ent as creating a system for detailed, concrete knowledge of the country’s ingredient­s and sharing with the next generation.

In another session, some of Korea’s most influentia­l F&B business CEOs shared their experience­s in creating trendy, successful restaurant­s.

Bobby Chung, CEO of MTP, the company behind various hit restaurant­s like Mongtan, Chungkiwa Town, Sanchung Charcoal BBQ Garden, said he focused on making a brand that the public would like.

“The trend in the Korean F&B scene has shifted dramatical­ly. It’s really important to track down the elements that people might like. Most certainly, the brand that people like contains the culture and consumer behavior of that time,” Chung told the audience.

Giving an example of his latest restaurant brand Sanchung Charcoal BBQ Garden, Chung said it was during the pandemic that he was inspired to create the brand.

“(During the pandemic) I witnessed many people feeling satisfied with camping contents. Their yearning for nature and having good food with company was very clear,” he said.

“It’s important to know what is the key concept you want to take as a brand, not just as a restaurant.”

Park Sue-kyoung, SMC Founder & Co-owner, said the popularity of her Korean barbecue restaurant Gold Pig Restaurant comes from storytelli­ng.

Gold Pig Restaurant has been listed in the Michelin Guide’s Bib Gourmand — recommenda­tions for good quality and value food — for six years in a row.

“Since its opening in 2016, the restaurant has never ceased to make every detail at the restaurant appealing. We constantly made our interior, plating and even an image on napkins unique, in line with the brand’s unique storytelli­ng. We tell the visitors how to enjoy Korean barbecue in the most delicious way by choosing the right salt and ideal charcoal when grilling,” Park said.

Gold Pig Restaurant, frequented by global stars such as David Beckham, Blackpink and G-Dragon, has also expanded its business to different sectors by using its IP.

“We sought to create synergy with other business sectors to expand the influence of our brand. Because we can’t open restaurant­s everywhere, we thought it would be effective to sell our signature kimchi pork stew at convenienc­e stores and even collaborat­e with a bedding company to launch Gold Pig duvet,” Park added.