Irish Daily Mirror

WINNSBRUCK

Charlie Jones enjoys peak pleasures in the Austrian Tyrol capital

From the plane window I caught my first glimpse of the mountains standing guard over Innsbruck as they shimmered in golden sunlight. The aerial view of this alpine scene is enough to make your heart flutter – and I hoped I hadn’t peaked too soon.

But visitors to the capital of the Austrian Tyrol get much more than a fleeting glance. These mountains tower over Innsbruck on all sides, providing a thrilling USP for tourists.

Although outdoor pursuits and Christmas festivitie­s attract seasonal visitors, it’s the mix of urban, alpine and winter sports heritage that makes Innsbruck such an appealing yearround destinatio­n.

While the Romans and Napoleon left their mark here, its grand buildings serve as valuable reminders of the city’s importance to the Hapsburg dynasty, controllin­g a key route through the mountains into southern Europe.

Visitors can enjoy exploring the streets of the old town, marvelling at palaces-turned-museums and dining out, Tyrolean style.

What better place to start than the Bergisel ski-jump/restaurant?

Standing at around 400ft, the Bergisel ski jump has taken a starring role in two Winter Olympics.

I had breakfast worthy of a Hapsburg emperor before a tour of the jump where Eddie the Eagle managed to break a few bones.

Peering down from the “tremble bank” where jumpers shiver in fear before leaping into oblivion, you can see straight into a nearby cemetery!

The locals love everything to do with snow and the quality of slopes within easy reach of the city reflect that. It’s the launchpad for 13 ski areas within a one-hour radius. The closest, Nordkette, is 20 minutes from town.

I spent an afternoon exploring the slopes around Muttereral­m which overlook Innsbruck, and the views had me transfixed.

Don’t worry about skill levels as there’s everything from near-vertical to near-flat.

You can rent gear in the city or at the resorts, so you can test your ski legs for a day or make a serious holiday out of it.

Be it skiing, hiking or just admiring the views via the cable cars, the mountains are very much a highlight.

But Innsbruck city, a living fairy tale with 15th-century buildings and lanes full of history, museums and galleries, is there to be explored too.

You can get a glimpse of the grandeur of the Austrian-hungarian empire at Hofburg Imperial Palace.

Try climbing the 133 steps to the viewing platform of the city tower and see the famous Golden Roof. A little further out is beautifull­y preserved Renaissanc­e-style Ambras Castle.

If you fancy a wander, start at Maria-theresien Strasse, dubbed “our shopping street” by locals.

Our guide said: “If you want a nice dress go to Munich or Vienna; for sports equipment come to Innsbruck,” but she was being modest. After a few hours in the sales I was set for my next hiking holiday.

It felt very easy to be a tourist in Innsbruck. Locals speak near-perfect English and an all-in-one SKI Plus CITY Pass gets you into museums, on to buses and up ski lifts.

Heading out of the city, the HQ of crystal maker Swarovski is in Wattens. A massive grasscover­ed head greets visitors to the museummeet­s-gallery displaying creations over the past 130 years, from Elton John outfits to collaborat­ions with Andy Warhol and Salvador Dalí.

Eating out is all part of the appeal of Innsbruck. Mountain people need fuel for days at high altitudes so expect chunky soups and potato-based dishes topped with schnitzel.

Sample mouthwater­ing seasonal and regional menus at Das Schindler.

Try modern Tyrolean cuisine at Weitsicht with views over the rooftops.

There’s more traditiona­l fare at Weisses Rössl, where recipes include beef tartare from the Tyrolean alpine ox, or slap-up treats like braised Austrian beef ribs

at Flojos.

I loved Cafe Kröll which has the largest selection of strudel in Innsbruck, from chicken curry to cream cheese and cherry chocolate.

After dining it was a pleasure to retire with a schnapps at one of the cosy, vaulted bars in the old town.

Wherever you end up, all pathways seem to lead to Stage 12, a hotel of glass-walled rooms with mountain views, plus a spa, a garden courtyard and cocktail bar.

Skiing, sightseein­g, or sampling local specialiti­es, this Tyrolean beauty offers an elegant integratio­n of big mountain thrills and city break pizazz. Take a bow, Innsbruck.

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Peer down from the ski jump’s ‘tremble bank’ into a cemetery!