Summer in a Bottle
Seasonality is not a word strictly associated with wine as much as it is with food. And yet with the ensuing summer months and the resulting change in the dishes we consume, it means the wine inevitably follows suit.
As such, it’s reasonable to say that we have firmly landed in ‘rosé season’, where the joys of a crisp Provençal blush will satisfy alongside many a salad. However, increased popularity means that rosé’s famous partner in southern France often comes with a hefty price tag and there is excellent value to be found elsewhere.
Laurent Miquel, along with his Irish wife Neasa, are producing superb wines in the Languedoc and their very approachable Solas Rosé Reserve is one of the best value around for that light, breezy expression (Dunnes Stores, €11.80).
Another exemplar from the region, this time emanating from Minervois AOC, is the Domaine Pujol Izard Minervois Mercredi 12h30 Rosé, 2023 (Whelehans Wines, €17).A visually appealing rose gold, the nose is fresh with stone fruit, herbs and an edge of citrus. A blend of syrah and cinsault, it’s a delicious balance of textured fruit with a fresh, bright finish. A splash of sunshine at any time of the year for a crowd-pleasing rosé. Try this with fish tacos, where the body will complement the mild spice.
Slightly farther afield, over the border to northern Italy’s Bardolino, the Zeni Vigne Alte, Chiaretto di Bardolino Classico 2023 (Blackrock Cellar, Pete’s Provisions, The Wine Pair, €19) is a rosé made from grapes typical of the region — corvina and rondinella.
An incredibly inviting nose with mounds of ripe peaches, red berries and a light floral lift, this has a beautifully balanced depth with strawberries and stone fruit before
cleansing acidity shines. This juicy, fresh and convivial wine would be excellent with seafood.
Crisp whites are also a popular summertime choice, with albariño, sauvignon blanc and the affable pinot grigio still proving popular. On recent travels to Naples, I have grown to adore two varieties common to Campania, fiano and falanghina. Of the former, seek out Fiano di Avellino DOCG wines, but from outside the region try Puglia’s Zìn Fiano Salento IGT 2022 (Whelehans Wines, €20). Bright and fresh with a fine texture and balanced structure, this is summer in a bottle.
Be sure to remember reds during the coming months too. Many lighter styles like zweigelt, some pinot noirs and gamay are all capable of taking, and enhanced by, a light chilling.
Can Sumoi, Garnatxa Sumoll 2021 (Redmonds of Ranelagh, The Corkscrew, Drink Store, €28.95) is rustic in the most refined way. Lower in alcohol at 12.5%, there’s a fruity plushness from the garnacha that is restrained and light while the sumoll offers vibrant acidity. A wonderful summertime red for those who enjoy a more rounded experience with expert balance.