Lava cave rooms and a volcanic menu: Santorini’s black hotel channels the island’s eruptive past
After years as a journalist and even longer as a travel obsessive, I am rarely blown away by a place - but Kivotos Hotel in Santorini did just that.
I’ve spent a long time in Greece over the years, from the Peloponnese to barely touched places in the Saronic Islands. Somehow, I hadn’t made it to arguably the country’s most famous place. Now I have, I can only say how glad I am.
Santorini is everything you’d imagine - all white-washed buildings with cyan blue accents, surrounded by perfect magenta bougainvillaea.
Kivotos looks rather different.
The second branch after Mykonos, the Santorini venture was opened by the Michopoulos family five years ago - and it sticks out from the rest of the buildings in the picturesque village of Imerovigli, in the very best way.
Although it offers the sunset views made so famous by postcards and trending videos on TikTok, Kivotos is, unlike every building in its vicinity, painted black.
Walking up and down the seemingly endless narrow stairs along the cliff, it’s hard to miss - and that’s even before you’ve stepped inside the gates.
Within, the suites and villas are truly a wonder to behold and they stand out just as much as the black exterior.
A tribute to Santorini’s volcanic landscape
I arrive after dark at the beginning of September after taking just a brief glance at Kivotos’ Instagram. Really, I had no idea what to expect, but walking into a recreation of a volcano was not it. This unique experience, the hotel’s charming welcome team told me, is a tribute to the island itself and its very rich history.
Santorini was devastated by a volcanic eruption in the 16th century, which forever shaped its rugged - and now legendary - landscape.
In the subsequent centuries, locals made the most of the incident, building towns and villages which cling to the cliffs. The black sand beaches below are surrounded by caves.
My suite at Kivotos is very much inspired by a cave formation, with wide, curved ceilings - and the lighting is simply remarkable.
I can safely say I have never entered a hotel room to be enveloped by red throughout. When I express my surprise, I am told the suites were designed to make visitors feel as if they were staying inside a volcanic cave, an experience reminiscent of the Santorini of centuries ago.
After settling in - and working out it’s entirely possible to change the lighting to any shade I de sired - I step outside my door to take in the famous Santorini vista. It’s still spectacular even in the darkness, thanks to the clearness of the skies showing off a multitude of stars. Taking a glass of locally-made wine into my personal Jacuzzi, I then luxuriate until my skin turns prunelike.
Sample fish prepared with Santorini’s volcanic ash
Despite the pure joy of that experience, it’s on to the task at hand.
I’mhere, mostly, to learn about the culinary richness of Santorini via the hotel’s own restaurant, MAVRO. The eatery itself is impressive enough, with a glass terrace high on the cliff with the most stunning view of that famous sunset.
But then comes the food, the brainchild of a team led by Dimitris Katrivesis, the restaurant’s head chef.
At its core, he tells me, the extensive, impressive menus “began as a way to celebrate the incredible flavours of Santorini and showcase a new fine dining experience for guests on the island”.
It goes deeper than a celebration of the island though, with every dish served paying tribute to Santorini’s very make-up.
Dimitris Katrivesis (@dimitriskatrivesis)
The delectable Fossilised Shrimp draws its inspiration from the many caves, where ancient fossilised creatures were once discovered. “We’ve captured that essence in this dish, bringing the past to life on your plate,” Dimitris explains of the exquisite shrimp dish.
Going further still, the Haiboshi Mackerel is paired with local, white aubergine and miso.
I learn that the mackerel, which complements the other flavours oh so perfectly, is actually prepared using a method which involves Santorini’s volcanic ash.
To me, that is genius; to Dimitris it is nothing more complicated than “adding a subtle depth that evokes the island’s volcanic landscape”. While the Cyclades islands are world-famous for their fish dishes, freshly harvested olive oil and salt straight from the Aegean sea are must-tries, too.
Dimitris combines those treasures into a luscious pudding - the Aegean Sea Salt Ice Cream.
Drizzled with olive oil and topped with caramelised pine nuts, it makes for the perfect combination of salty, sweet and creamy -“a refreshing tribute to the flavours of the Cyclades”, Dimitris says.
Digging in, it certainly seems to me as if I am g etting a real taste of the island group - and that’s something Dimitris is thrilled about.
“I’m proud to say that about 70 per cent of our ingredients come from Santorini and the surrounding Cyclades. Sourcing locally is extremely important to us,” he tells me. “It allows us to support the local community and ensure our dishes are fresh and full of flavour. “Using seasonal ingredients allows us to create unique and authentic dishes that genuinely reflect the spirit of the island.”
Could Santorini become the gastronomic capital of Greece?
While I challenge you to find anyone who doesn’t like Greek food, Santorini is not known as the gastronomic capital of the country - yet.
While the northern port city of Thessaloniki officially took that title earlier this year, when
UNESCO designated it as a city of gastronomy, Dimitris is confident Santorini can follow in its footsteps.
“I believe Santorini has the potential to become the culinary hotspot in the Cyclades. The island is blessed with delicious produce, such as its renowned tomatoes, fava beans and exceptional wines,” he tells me. “These ingredients not only have a dis tinct flavour but also reflect the rich agricultural heritage of the region.”
With his team, he says he’s pushing the boundaries of traditional Greek cuisine, with the hope of allowing Santorini to “shine even brighter on the culinary map”.
Dimitris adds that he wants to take his guests on a foodie journey which is “not just about dining, but about connecting with the island’s culture”.
As I head back to my glorious suite and straight back into the Jacuzzi - I’m a water sign, don’t blame me - I treat myself to one last glass of the sumptuous local wine.
At this moment, I understand exactly what Dimitiris had been saying - MAVRO really is a taste of Santorini itself, and one I’m itching to try again.