6. How do you get MORE HAIR?
Further, nothing dates your appearance more than sleeve cuffs that hit too far down the hand. They should break at the wrist, says Oliver. But if you are leaning slightly forward, due to your change in posture, a tailor needs to raise the cuff. “You can do that by shortening the hem, but that can mean making functional cuffs no longer functional,” he says, because of the buttons. “The best way to adjust sleeve length is by shortening the sleeve at the shoulder.”
Bespoke is the highest level of suiting, as it is individualized: If cared for properly (don’t dry-clean it too often, hang immediately after taking it off), such a suit should last at least 10 years, says Oliver. His semi-bespoke suits have some machine work and a “heavily” customized base pattern. Full bespoke suiting, with a pattern made from scratch, full canvas (meaning linings are not “fused” or glued to the suit but handsewn so they float inside) are completely hand-finished. Fabrics – always natural wools, wool-silks or linens – are imported from Europe.
In addition to the suit, you have to consider the shirt. Custom shirting makes a man’s style stand out, according to Oliver. “We all put on weight differently.” You don’t want your shirt to pull. Choosing to have it made means you can work with your tailor to get the best shape possible. What’s more, men tend to lose muscle volume in the chest and shoulders as they age, and gain weight at the waist. “A custom shirt will take that into account, and create a smooth line.” Then, collar choice is key. “Taller, thinner guys can get away with an English spread collar [where the points of the collar spread out versus down],” says Oliver. But if you have a shorter or thicker neck, you don’t want to have a collar that is too widespread. “Go, instead, for a classic point collar,” he advises.
Take an honest look at your whole body in the mirror. “Men rarely do this,” says Oliver. “Your tailor can work with you to make you look your best, they can teach you about dressing, but you have to start with a clear sense of what needs to be balanced out.” Tailoring, like life, is all about balance.
HAIR IS THE FRAME FOR OUR FACE, and often the first thing people notice about us. I know it can make or break our confidence every time we step out into the world, but I was surprised by the number of questions about thinning hair from female readers. “How do I get more hair?” Marilyn wrote. “Mine has thinned out, especially on top.” Three more letters followed within a week! This is clearly a concern, so let’s get into the thick of it.
I consulted Dr. Julia Carroll, head of Toronto’s Compass Dermatology, to understand the causes – aging, genetics and medical conditions like telogen effluvium and alopecia – and get some solutions.
She says minoxidil (Rogaine), an over-the-counter topical treatment, is a good first line of defence; it has separate formulations for men and women. Discovered in trials for a blood pressure drug, it increases blood flow to hair follicles, which shortens hair’s dormant growth phase and stimulates regrowth. Men with male pattern baldness can get a Propecia prescription, which, longterm studies have shown, stops hair loss in eight of 10 users, with some twothirds seeing regrowth. Beware: it stops working when you stop taking it.
The big-ticket treatment is platelet-rich plasma (PRP), where your blood sample is spun in a centrifuge until its collagen-boosting platelets are refined, then injected into the scalp. “We recommend starting with five sessions, six to eight weeks apart, followed by maintenance every four to six months,” says Carroll, adding that treatments start at $600 a session.
On the cosmetic front, you could try Toppik, which uses coloured fibres to give hair a thicker appearance. It doesn’t streak or collapse in the rain and comes in nine shades.
LordHair.com offers high-tech hairpieces for men and women, with thin, flesh-coloured bases that blend into your own. They cost $200 and up, last