Canadian Rockies Alpine Will Test You
It’s that time of year again
when the summer alpine routes come into condition and alpinists flock to the Canadian Rockies to test themselves. The alpine climbing in the Rockies is unlike the granite spires of B.C. or long ridges in the Sierra Nevada, as the rock is choss, the approaches are untracked and the descents are complicated. Some of the world’s best alpine climbers have said that if you can climb in the Rockies, then you can climb anywhere.
If you’ve never been above treeline on a long Rockies alpine route, there are a few things to keep in mind. Always start on the easiest routes in the guidebooks, as the grades don’t do a good job at getting across the difficulties. If you’re a 5.12 gym climber but you’ve never alpine climbed, then hire a guide to show you the basics. But if you have a bit of alpine experience somewhere else, then get on stuff like the Kain Route on Mount Louis or East Ridge of Edith Cavell.
Many of the alpine routes have complicated glaciers, which you’ll always want to be roped up on. When I climbed the south face of Mount Robson, my partner and I broke through at least six snow bridges, and we partially fell into crevasses. It’s a safe bet to think that you’ll fall into a few crevasses, so always have the rope on and know how to use it.
You’ll also want to leave early and move fast, as afternoon thunderstorms can happen even when they’re not forecasted. I’ve felt the electric charge of a thunderstorm on several routes and even had lightning strike a peak only 10 metres away. If you think that a thunderstorm is building, then hunker down or bail. Always be prepared for a storm by having waterproof layers.
Most alpine routes have fixed pitons that you’re going to use for protection and belays, but the pitons aren’t always bomber. I always carry a lightweight hammer so that when I come across a piton, I can make sure that it’s solid. I’ve come across ledges where the anchor pitons have completely fallen out of the rock and are lying on the ground. Find a chossy cliff somewhere and practise placing pitons, so you know what you’re doing when it matters.
If you arrive at the base of a route and you don’t feel good about it, then don’t start up. I’ve turned around several times, and I’ve never regretted it. I once watched seracs crash down the climb that I had just bailed on, an icefall that surely would have killed my partner and me. And remember: once the sun hits the mountain above you, rocks will start falling. I’ve had rocks hit me several times and even cut one of my ropes.
Alpine climbing in the Rockies is dangerous and difficult, so be prepared for long days out. And never be ashamed to tuck tail and bail.