BOZEMAN/MONTANA
WHERE ICE REIGNS SUPREME
After journeying south from the Canadian wilderness, with its own cornucopia of ice climbing routes, our first major U.S. stop is Bozeman, Mont. Renowned for its challenging ice climbs and stunning natural beauty, Bozeman offers a diverse range of climbs that will test your mettle and technique. One unique feature about climbing in Bozeman is the opportunity to tailgate in Hyalite Canyon. Many of the routes all start from the same parking lot. You can almost be guaranteed to cross paths with other climbers there as long as you don’t have an alpine start or late finish.
THE SCEPTER
This iconic ice pillar is not just a climb; it’s a rite of passage. Known for its brittle early-season ice, The Scepter challenges climbers with its featured ice and technical WI5 climbing. Success means ticking off one of Hyalite Canyon’s most visually arresting ice structures. Usually, earlier in the season, it is more of a pillar and fills out as more ice forms later in the season to become a WI4. You can easily combine climbing The Scepter with some routes nearby.
CLEOPATRA’S NEEDLE
A stunning freestanding pillar, Cleopatra’s Needle offers a bit longer climb in Hyalite. The approach is moderate and one to one-and-a-half hours from the car. Expect two to three pitches, depending on how you pitch it out. The second pitch is the crux with sustained steep WI5 climbing.
MUMMY COOLER IV
This classic WI5/6 multi-pitch route provides an excellent challenge for climbers looking to enjoy the scenery and the climb in equal measure. However, take it seriously; the final pitches are the most difficult.
THE GOOD LOOKING ONE
True to its name, this climb isn’t just about the challenge; it’s about the sheer esthetic beauty of the ascent. Combining mixed climbing conditions with the chance to scale one of Hyalite Canyon’s most picturesque routes, it’s a favourite among climbers who appreciate nature’s artistry.