FEATURED FELLOW: JENNI LESSARD
To the world, she’s known as Chef Jenni. Her friends and coworkers sometimes call her Jenni the Jackrabbit. As executive director of Indigenous Culinary of Associated Nations, Jenni Lessard’s personal life is a whirlwind of places, faces and tastes. She has been ambitious from early on, starting her first cuisinerelated business venture the summer before she began Grade 9. This was not your typical lemonade or baked goods stall, but rather a hamburger stand she called Flight Delight. It was her first foray into the culinary world that has occupied her time and imagination for the last two decades. Now, Lessard wants to share opportunities and knowledge with the next generation.
On the importance of nature
Nature has been my education. It’s been my healing place. It’s my pantry. It’s everything. My main passion other than cooking is water. I bring a bathing suit everywhere I go — even on day trips. Lakes, rivers, ocean, hotel pools!
On becoming Chef Jenni
I called my catering business Chef Jenni Cuisine. I didn’t go to culinary school; there was just no time. I was trying to survive, then having little kids, then starting this business. I wasn’t calling myself a chef, but other people started to. When I looked up the definition, I was like, “Okay, so aside from the brigade system, it’s whoever’s the chief of the kitchen.” And then I thought, “Well, no one else is peeling wild hazelnuts at two in the morning. That’s me!” So I accepted “chef” and worked it into my business name.
On honouring and giving back
You need to be open to feedback from your community, whether it’s the Métis community or the culinary community — letting go of your ego and being able to adapt and absorb change. I try to uplift others in the community so they can have the opportunities I’ve had. That’s my focus. If you Google Métis chefs in Canada, you’ll probably get maybe five names. I would love it if 25 names pop up and there is an embarrassment of riches when it comes to Métis chefs, especially female chefs, and female First Nation chefs. Part of my work with ICAN is to grow that network. [Indigenous Culinary of Associated Nations aims to share the many facets of Indigenous food, culinary and cultural experiences across Canada.]
On finding “li salay” in cooking
Li salay is a Michif word for the sun. I try to put that sunshine in my heart before I go into the kitchen. And if it starts to kind of leave, I try to draw it back, because people will taste that. We’ve all been to a meal where on the plate it looks like it should taste good — all the components and ingredients are there, and it should be good. But it just doesn’t taste good. It could have been something in the kitchen that wasn’t right, emotionally or spiritually.
—Interview by Benjamin Ralph