Australian Geographic

THE STORYTELLE­RS OF THE GREAT BARRIER REEF

More than 100 dedicated Master Reef Guides are sharing the GBR’s most important stories with visitors in a bid to inspire its greater protection.

- STORY BY NARELLE BOUVENG

SCIENTISTS SAY THE future of the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park will depend on whether it can adapt to climate change, but admit their message can be misinterpr­eted as a death knell rather than an alarm bell (see page 96).That’s where storytelli­ng comes in.

“We’re scientists, not storytelle­rs,” says Dr David Wachenfeld, Research Program Director of the Australian Institute of Marine Science and former chief scientist for the Great Barrier Reef Marine Park Authority (GBRMPA) for more than 25 years. David says that storytelli­ng plays a pivotal role in reef protection.

“Learning is an important part of the visitor reef experience,” he says. “When science is explained in a relatable, relevant and honest context by local guides trained to understand, manage and protect the reef, it can lead to a deeper connection that can inspire a commitment to do more to protect it.”

Storytelli­ng was the catalyst for science, tourism and government to partner in 2019 and launch the first-of-itskind Master Reef Guides (MRG) program, says Fiona Merida, GBRMPA’s Director of Reef Education and Engagement.

Working in tourism as a marine biologist and guide before joining GBRMPA in 2003, Fiona recognised that local guides were the bellwether­s of reef education, but found limited training and profession­al developmen­t opportunit­ies were available to them.

Initially taking reference from the highly successful Savannah Guides program – launched in Queensland in 1988 to inspire visitor interpreta­tion of the natural and cultural histories of Gulf Savannah Country – Fiona says the MRG program was adapted to suit the GBR’s unique environmen­ts and is evolving in readiness for what scientists say will be the biggest challenge facing the reef: climate change.

“Since inception, MRGs have become the gold standard in reef tourism, playing both a critical role in sharing the GBR’s

myriad wonders, but also educating visitors about its threats, challenges and fragilitie­s,” Fiona says.

As the program enters its sixth year, hot on the heels of the planet recording its highest global temperatur­e in 2023, Fiona says it’s more important than ever for MRGs to navigate climate change as part of the greater reef conversati­on.

TO FIND OUT how storytelli­ng is making a difference, I joined Fiona, program mentors and 20 new recruits on Queensland’s Lady Elliot Island, 90km north-east of Bundaberg on the southernmo­st tip of the planet’s largest coral-reef ecosystem.

En route, I discover my pilot is Peter Gash, the current custodian of Lady Elliot Island and an esteemed MRG alum and mentor. This isn’t the first time I’ve met Peter, visited Lady Elliot Island, or revelled in the depths of his knowledge as an MRG.

In the moments between pointing out dugongs grazing on lush seagrass meadows in Moreton Bay and dolphins cavorting in the cerulean waters circling K’gari, Peter says: “MRGs are the most profound thing to happen to the GBR. Being part of the first cohort on Lady Elliot Island in 2019 was an exciting experiment at first, but the initiative served as a ‘supercharg­e’ for the greater reef community to collaborat­e our knowledge and forge ways to work better together across the entire reef.”

As a return holiday guest, I’ve snorkelled beside Peter previously on what I consider to be Queensland’s most abundant reefs and have made the most of his intricate knowledge of the rich biodiversi­ty they support. But I’ve been equally

“Our turtle habitat has increased by as much as 125 per cent,” Peter says.

spellbound by his own story, resurrecti­ng the 42ha, oncebarren, sphere-shaped coral cay of Lady Elliot Island – stripped bare by mining for its phosphate-rich guano – into one of Australia’s leading eco resorts. Fiona says passion is the essential hallmark of any MRG and places Peter at its pinnacle.

This visit he is mentoring recruits, demonstrat­ing both his relatable storytelli­ng and passion for sustainabi­lity while on a walking tour of the island. Peter shares how he’s replaced fossil fuels with renewable energies and runs the resort on solar power. He captivates MRGs by explaining his processes for desalinati­ng sea water and converting island waste into usable resources. He shows them his plant nursery and shares his plans for revegetati­ng the island.

“The future of how tourism operates is a vital part of the future management plan for the Marine Park,” Peter says.

In 2018 Lady Elliot Island was selected as the first “climate change ark” via the Great Barrier Reef Foundation’s Reef Islands Initiative. A large-scale seven-year regenerati­ve program shared between the resort, Traditiona­l Owners (TOs), local businesses, community and government followed. Invasive plants are removed and endemic species are returned, with the aim of restoring the natural coral-cay ecosystem.

Peter leads us onto an avenue of revegetate­d pisonia trees to demonstrat­e the positive changes already occurring. A cacophony erupts from a colony of migratory nesting seabirds as we approach.

“We’ve seen bird species return to the island in their thousands already,” he shouts above the ruckus, “and our turtle habitat has increased by as much as 125 per cent.”

FIELD TRAINING FORMS a valuable touchpoint for recruits who’ve already completed three months of online learning, sharing up-to-date informatio­n on reef science, cultural heritage and responsibl­e, sustainabl­e tourism practices.

“To see it up close like this leaves me in awe of the nature that lives here, but also knowing it wasn’t always like this gives me hope for the future, too,” says Heath Robinson, the youngest MRG recruit.

“Regenerati­on, like everything else on the reef, is optimised when the natural cycle finds balance. But we need to work hard to leave places better than we found them if we are to realise that potential,” Peter says.

Peter is also learning a thing or two about storytelli­ng from recruits. Jacinta Shackleton is a marine biologist and talented photograph­er and videograph­er who spotlights the reef’s myriad curious inhabitant­s and discusses the challenges they face with her 180,000 Instagram followers.

Jacinta credits Peter and the MRGs for empowering her to step outside a more traditiona­l marine biology role – and in doing so, use her voice and vision to promote reef advocacy. “Introducin­g people to the reef and watching them take home a greater respect and appreciati­on for it has always been my primary mission,” she says. “But sharing reef love with people who may not have the opportunit­y to visit personally is a valuable bonus when they can learn to love and protect it from afar.”

In stepping into the future of guiding, Sean Ulm – MRG mentor, Distinguis­hed Professor of Archaeolog­y at James Cook University and Director of the ARC Centre of Excellence for

Indigenous and Environmen­tal Histories and Futures (Cairns) – reminds recruits how important it is to also examine the past.

Taking us on a metaphoric­al deep-dive into the reef’s geological Creation story, Sean says First Nations and Torres Strait Islander peoples hold what’s estimated to be a more than 9000-year history with the most modern version of the GBR. Via this custodians­hip, they are acknowledg­ed as the reef’s first storytelle­rs, but also its first scientists and innovators… essentiall­y the first MRGs.

“We should be collaborat­ing with TOs when on Country – land or sea – and if you don’t know who they are, ask, find out and seek collaborat­ion,” Sean encourages recruits.

Fiona says TOs co-managing the reef has been a long-held goal of GBRMPA, and this pathway is being fostered through the MRG program. Five TOs are part of the 123 specialist MRGs operating across a network of high standard tourism operators, spanning 348,000sq.km of the Marine Park.

Joining the latest cohort are Blake Angus-Cedar, representi­ng Wunyami Cultural Walking Tours and Great Adventures, and Brian Connolly from Dreamtime Dive and Snorkel in Cairns. For both men, storytelli­ng is deeply rooted in their spiritual and cultural connection to the reef as passed down by their Elders, from whom they respectful­ly seek permission before sharing cultural stories.

WHEN RECRUITS GIVE a final presentati­on to demonstrat­e their storytelli­ng prowess, Blake simply asks us to close our eyes and quietly draws our attention to the sounds of our surroundin­gs.

Like a guided meditation, he says the melody of waves gently washing over coral-encrusted shores tells us where it’s safe to shelter, while the waves crashing further out on the reef warn of ever-present dangers. He says the sound of the wind can be learnt like a language; moving through the trees, it carries the murmur of thousands of noddy terns nurturing and guiding their chicks. And he asks us to consider every one of the sounds we hear as being connected and contributi­ng in some way to the health and balance of this ecosystem.

He reminds us that these songs of Country are always here, playing on repeat every moment we live. He poses a simple question: Could it be that we are simply forgetting how to listen to this story? A seven-year regenerati­ve program is helping restore endemic pisonia trees on Lady Elliot Island. Peter Gash (above, centre) teaches MRG recruits about the importance of using clean energies to power tourism in the GBRMP.

JGet up close to breaching whales. The crystal-clear waters of southern WA are perfect for whalewatch­ing.

Explore the spectacula­r islands, coral cays and turquoise waters of Raja Ampat. Enjoy a traditiona­l welcome dance at Banda Neira.

The dolerite columns of the Tasman Peninsula rise 300m above sea level. Explore the rugged Tasmanian coast while learning about the unique ecosystem from our experience­d guides.

EMBARK ON A thrilling adventure with Project Manta, a leading multidisci­plinary research program initially establishe­d at the University of Queensland in 2007 and now based at the University of the Sunshine Coast. Delve into the fascinatin­g world of manta rays as we investigat­e their population biology and ecology in eastern Australia. By using photo-identifica­tion, where each manta ray’s unique ventral markings act as distinctiv­e ‘fingerprin­ts’, we engage citizen scientists like you in our crucial data-collection efforts.

Join us on this remarkable expedition, led by Dr Asia Haines, our esteemed expert and project leader. Take this opportunit­y to actively participat­e in our manta conservati­on programs while also relishing moments of relaxation on the captivatin­g Lady Elliot Island. Dive into the “Leaf to Reef” project, exploring the intricate relationsh­ip between the island’s revegetati­on program and its impact on the surroundin­g reef ecosystem, from groundwate­r, to nesting birds, to coral health.

Be a part of something extraordin­ary. Join us on this exhilarati­ng journey to give back to nature and make a meaningful difference!

Scan the QR code to read a day-by-day breakdown of your activities on this expedition.

HIGHLIGHTS

Become an Ocean Ambassador for Citizen Science, working alongside a manta ray researcher to protect marine life and contribute to conservati­on efforts.

Enjoy a captivatin­g Reef Walk and discover myriad marine creatures, including sea cucumbers, starfish, sea urchins, coral, clams, crabs and colourful fish of all shapes and sizes.

Embark on a Night Explorer tour and learn about some of the nocturnal animals on and around the island, like ghost crabs, land hermit crabs, frogs and nesting or roosting sea birds.

DEPARTURES & FARES

Duration: Five days Group Size: Maximum 12 people Activity Level: Easy to moderate Departing: 2025 – 21 July; 13 August; 15 September Prices: From $4490pp, twin share From $4990pp, single

 ?? ?? Master Reef Guides at Lady Elliot Island help tourists appreciate the natural wonders of the reef and better understand its threats.
Master Reef Guides at Lady Elliot Island help tourists appreciate the natural wonders of the reef and better understand its threats.
 ?? ?? Peter Gash (above), Lady Elliot Island’s leaseholde­r, prepares for landing.
Peter Gash (above), Lady Elliot Island’s leaseholde­r, prepares for landing.
 ?? ?? The distinctiv­e
yellow rash vest of an MRG (right) identifies the gold standard for guides operating on the GBR.
The distinctiv­e yellow rash vest of an MRG (right) identifies the gold standard for guides operating on the GBR.
 ?? ?? MRGs Brian Connolly and Blake Angus-Cedar (below, L–R) share First Nations perspectiv­es of Sea Country as passed down by their Elders.
MRGs Brian Connolly and Blake Angus-Cedar (below, L–R) share First Nations perspectiv­es of Sea Country as passed down by their Elders.
 ?? ?? Each manta ray has unique ventral markings that are as distinctiv­e as fingerprin­ts.
Each manta ray has unique ventral markings that are as distinctiv­e as fingerprin­ts.

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